Nice Thai

But Lemon Grass comes up short in some departments

BY POLLY CAMPBELL
The Cincinnati Enquirer

The number of comments I've heard about Lemon Grass Thai restaurant in Hyde Park since it opened in September confirms what I thought: The most exciting thing for people who like to eat out is a new ethnic restaurant. There's always hope of hidden treasure, a new find in Greater Cincinnati's meager selections.

Sure, we have plenty of Chinese and Thai and Mexican places, but since Cincinnati doesn't have many large ethnic communities, few restaurants are tailored to native eaters of their cuisine. You have to wonder if what you're getting is a toned-down version.

Not a real adventure

While Lemon Grass is a welcome addition to the Thai line-up, it lacks the excitement of real adventure. The best Thai food can be amazing -- full of complex flavors in perfect balance. Dishes are beautifully cooked and served, but at Lemon Grass, I often felt the flavor balance was off.

Like many Thai restaurants, Lemon Grass tends toward the formal, with white linen tablecloths and servers in black and white. Yellow chairs and pots of herbs in the window keep it homey, and the carpeted room is blessedly subdued and quiet, though there are plenty of diners there on a Friday evening. There's a respectable wine list, including a couple of gewurztraminers and reislings picked to go with the spicy food.

Thai soups are capable of being so good that you just order more and forget the rest of the meal. But three that I tried didn't make me cancel my entree. Lemongrass soup ($2.50), with mushrooms, scallions and cilantro, was based on a clear but slightly too sweet chicken broth. Vegetable soup ($2.50) had the same stock, full of impeccably fresh snow peas and other vegetables. Chicken coconut ($2.95) was even sweeter, which is to be expected, but it lacked the counterpoint of other tastes.

Beef lettuce cups ($6.95), which we split as an appetizer, are listed as a salad and have the attributes of Asian salads: the contrast of cold fresh lettuce and hot marinated beef. It was, however, a little too tart; flavors hit the high notes without the chromatics that give it depth. Other appetizers include ''gold bags'' ($4.95), cute deep-fried dumplings with a bite of shrimp and chicken inside, and good spring rolls ($3.25).

There are three noodle dishes, including a good version of Phat Thai ($7.95 or a dollar more with shrimp) with thin strands of noodles, ground peanuts and tofu, generously sprinkled with fresh cilantro.

Good chicken curry

Entrees are well-cooked. The chicken, beef and shrimp are the most tender little morsels I've ever encountered in a stir-fry. In Seven Elements ($9.50), the tender beef is supposed to be flavored with garlic, ginger, hoisin, chilies, basil, peanuts and lemon grass, but the overwhelming flavor is ginger -- lots of sharp, fresh, raw ginger.

I was pleased at lunch with red chicken curry ($8.50 at dinner, $4.95 as a lunch special.) It had that wonderful tender chicken again and a sauce with the uniquely Thai combination of comfort from the coconut milk and discomfort (just a little) from the spiciness. I asked for broccoli instead of bamboo shoots, which presented no problem. The young servers are pleasant and efficient, and have the pacing right.

Yellow curry with chicken is a favorite of a friend, and I had to agree with him that this version ($8.50) didn't have the depth it could have.

I did like swimming angel chicken ($8.95), with broccoli and spinach in peanut sauce, spiced to Level 4. I've found the 1-10 spiciness scale doesn't always work: heat in food is subjective and hard to keep consistent. We ordered at Level 4 and every dish was what I expect a 4 to be: pleasantly warm and interesting, not fiery.

No Chinese menu

Lemon Grass doesn't play it safe with a complete Chinese menu in addition to Thai dishes, as some restaurants do. But many of the dishes resemble Chinese restaurant meals.

Seafood basil ($12.95), for instance, has plenty of vegetables and tender scallops, shrimp and pretend crab in a light soy sauce with the basil not strongly evident. The menu also lists familiar dishes, such as cashew nut chicken ($8.95), beef and broccoli ($8.75) and sweet and sour shrimp ($9.25).

Reviews are done anonymously at Enquirer expense. Ratings take into consideration quality of food, service, presentation and atmosphere, balanced against price.