BY TIM MOREHOUSE
The Cincinnati Enquirer

Before gathering the family and heading to the tree farm or sales lot for THE CHRISTMAS TREE, 1996, take a minute to decide what type of live tree you want. Following are some common varieties with identifying characteristics.

The Scotch pine (also called Scots pine) has stiff, medium-long (2-3 inches) blue-green needles that do not shed for four-to-six weeks. This variety is a favorite in the Midwest.

The Norway spruce grows in the classical conical shape. Its needles (1/2 -1 inch long) are stiff and sharp-pointed. Spruces have the shortest needle retention.

Red pine (with needles 5-6 inches long) and white pine (with needles 21/2 -3î inches long) have dense, dark green foliage and good needle retention.

The Balsam fir produces dark, shining green needles (5/8-inch long) and has a good pyramidal shape composed of horizontal, rigid branches.

The Frazer fir is one of the most beautiful Christmas trees with fragrant, shiny dark green needles (5/8 -1 inch long). It will, however, shed needles quickly in a warm room.

The following tips will help extend the life of a cut Christmas tree.

Store the tree in a cool place away from sun, wind and heat until you are ready to decorate it.

Trim the stump end on the diagonal, 1 inch above the original cut. This opens the pores and helps the tree absorb water.

Plunge the stump end into a bucket of fresh warm water. Keep the tree in a bucket of water until moving it inside.

If the tree stand has a container for water, mix 1 cup of 7-Up with the water. The sugar in the 7-Up helps keep the tree fresh. Trees absorb up to a gallon of water the first 24 hours they are up, and several quarts of water after that.

If you prefer to buy a live tree, be aware that it can weigh as much as 150 pounds and will require more work than a cut tree. Remember, an ideal Christmas tree should have good needle retention; a full, symmetrical shape (plenty of foliage) and strong limbs to support ornaments.

Here are some tips for a live Christmas tree:

When you purchase a live (balled and burlapped) tree, make certain the root ball is solid with no signs of crumbling.

Store the tree in a garage or shed until you're ready to take it inside.

If there is plastic over the burlap, remove it and water the tree. Allow excess water to run off the root ball, then rewrap it with plastic to protect floors before moving the tree inside.

When Christmas is over, plant the tree at the level it was growing at the tree farm. Dig a hole that is wider and deeper than the circumference of the root ball. Mix some Canadian sphagnum peat moss with the soil in the bottom of the hole.

Position the tree in the hole (a job for two people). Once the tree is in place, water thoroughly.

Cut the twine that holds the burlap around the root ball but leave the burlap intact; it will rot with time. Pack the area around the root ball tightly with soil and peat moss. Water thoroughly once again.

Whether you have a freshly cut or a live tree, mist the needles and branches with water before decorating.

For safety, locate the Christmas tree away from fireplaces, heaters and televisions, and unplug lights when you leave home or go to bed.

Where to cut your own tree

Published Nov. 23, 1996.