Thursday, March 11, 1999
The meaning of Mecca
Several local families will make pilgrimage to Saudi Arabia, fulfilling an Islamic obligation
BY JULIE IRWIN
The Cincinnati Enquirer
Here they are a minority, members of a faith that many don't understand. But when 10 or so local families travel to Saudi Arabia later this month, they will join millions of fellow Muslims in fulfilling one of Islam's primary obligations.
Members of the Islamic Center of Greater Cincinnati in West Chester are busy packing and studying for the hajj, the annual pilgrimage to the holy sites in Saudi Arabia. Once accessible only by desert caravan, the sites now draw about 2.5 million people during the pilgrimage season, thanks to modern transportation and the growing prosperity of Muslims worldwide.
After arriving in Mecca and nearby sites, pilgrims dress alike in white and strive to achieve a state of purity and obedience. Asian, European, African and American Muslims alike perform centuries-old rituals, such as symbolically stoning the devil, under an unforgiving Saudi sun.
It's difficult, very taxing and very crowded over there. You have to have a lot of patience, says Dr. Salem Foad, 57, an Indian Hill rheumatologist who performed hajj 15 years ago and is returning this year. But it's very enriching, and you come out with a renewed sense of your obligations, your goals and where you are going.
Performing hajj once in a lifetime is a requirement for all Muslims who are financially and physically able to go. Recalling the prophets Muhammad and Abraham, the hajj is one of the five obligations of Islam, along with a declaration of faith, daily prayers, charity and fasting during the month of Ramadan.
Making arrangements
This year's trip is costing local families about $4,000 per person. There are other considerations besides the cost: Most pilgrims must take off at least two weeks from work or school. Raehan Qureshi, 15, a 10th-grader at St. Xavier High School, had to arrange to take tests he'll miss when he returns. Sayeeda Tayeb, 44, of Fairfield, who sells Avon products, had her own worries and her own anticipation.
I called all my customers and said, "I'm going to be gone for two campaigns. Don't buy from anybody else!' she says. I've heard so much about (the hajj) it's like my hair is standing up. Right now it's like I get up with all these thoughts in my mind, and I go to bed with all these thoughts in my mind.
Once they arrive in Saudi Arabia after flying for at least 14 hours pilgrims travel by bus or car to the holy city of Mecca. Before entering Mecca, they enter a state of consecration, or ihram. Men don two white pieces of cloth and women usually wear a modest white robe, and all refrain from arguing, sexual relations, cutting of trees, killing of animals and other acts that detract from purity of mind.
Age-old rituals
One of the first rituals performed in Mecca is also the most visually arresting. In towaf, thousands of pilgrims walk seven times around the Ka'ba, a sacred black stone that Muslims believe was built by the prophet Abraham and his son Ishmael.
Farhat Qureshi visited the holy sites a few years ago, although it was not at pilgrimage time so it did not fulfill the obligation. A few vivid memories stand out.
It was so hot I couldn't open my eyes, Mrs. Qureshi says. You feel trembling and God-fearing. You don't care about anything in the world except this holy place of God.
After towaf, pilgrims walk seven times between two nearby hills, re-enacting Hagar's search for help and water after Abraham abandoned her and Ishmael. And on the ninth day of the zuhl hejja, or pilgrimage month, the visitors stand and pray in the valley of Arafat, about a dozen miles from Mecca, an act that rehearses for the Day of Judgment.
The next day pilgrims continue to nearby Mina, collecting pebbles to stone the devil. The ritual recalls Abraham's family throwing stones at the devil to ward off temptation after God ordered Abraham to sacrifice his son. Finally, pilgrims either shave or cut a portion of their hair, signifying the end of the pilgrimage and freedom from the restrictions of ihram, and they celebrate the Eid al-Kabir, the Great Festival.
The rituals of the hajj are layered with meaning and history, says Dr. Foad, who spoke to Islamic Center members about the pilgrimage Sunday. Many of them commemorate Muhammad, Abraham and the other prophets. Although Muslims are only required to go once, they can also go to fulfill a family member's obligation, and Dr. Foad is going for his father-in-law.
It shows unity and solidarity. It also shows equality. They're wearing the same clothes, doing the same things. There shouldn't be any difference between a common man and a king, he says.
At the same time, it also makes you wonder if people are so pious and sincere and devoted to God at this time, why not all the time?
As the number of pilgrims has grown up from about 10,000 a half-century ago so have the tragedies associated with the hajj. Last year more than 150 pilgrims died in a stampede during the stoning of the devil ritual.
The year before more than 340 people died when fire tore through a tent city at Mina. And in 1990 1,426 pilgrims were killed in a stampede in an overcrowded pedestrian tunnel leading to holy sites, the worst hajj-related tragedy on record. There are about 1 billion Muslims in the world.
Local first-timers admit to some fears about the crowds and the past problems. But they say their nervousness pales next to the chance to fulfill such an important obligation.
I will feel relieved that I did it, once I go, says Naz Ghani, 50, of Monfort Heights, who arranged for her 15-year-old daughter to stay with her son and his new wife. I'll feel much better because (husband Rasheed) will be with me, and he's already done it.
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