One of the first hints of spring is the start of bock season. It's the first beer to be called “liquid bread,” an expression applied to the hearty doppelbock (“doublebock” in German) brewed by the monks in Munich.

        Monks in the 17th century fasted strictly for long periods. To take in the calories without eating solids, they brewed the most nutritious beer possible, a simple task since many European monasteries were breweries, too.

        The extra-strong, extra-sweet beer brewed by the Munich monks was called Salvator (“Savior” in Latin), partly to honor their religious calling, but I think also because this liquid bread saved them during fasts.

        Eventually, the monks started selling Salvator to locals, who called it doppelbock, with a bit of exaggeration since it's nowhere near twice as strong as their regular bock.

        Today, many brewers produce doppelbock, usually as a seasonal specialty. Most pay homage to the original Salvator by giving their beer a name that also ends in “ator” — Celebrator, Optimator.

        Doppelbock beers can be light or dark, but carry the malty sweetness to an intense level. You may even notice what seems to be a slight fruity character, due to the complex chemistry that creates this beer. The alcohol level, at 7 percent, is more noticeable. My favorite has always been the original, Paulaner Salvator, but don't pass up Ayinger Celebrator, Spaten Optimator or Samuel Adams Double Bock.

        Now that this weekend's Cincinnati BockFest has officially kicked off the season, why not try one of the many other kinds of bock beer?

        Traditional bock (it's never called single bock, just bock) is always brown with a strong malty aroma. The flavor is rich and complex, with malty, grainy and caramel notes, and occasionally a touch of a roasty taste. There is virtually no hop character, only malt. Bock's alcohol content is usually over 6 percent by volume.

        Variations include Helles Bock, lighter in color but otherwise similar to the traditional. An outstanding example is this year's BarrelHouse bock, available only on draft at the Over-the-Rhine brewpub.

        Maibock stands out because it has a noticeable hop flavor. Ayinger Maibock is another favorite. A most unusual variation is Weizenbock, which is both wheat beer and bock beer. The finest example is Aventinus. The spicy character of the wheat complements the bock and makes it more complex and interesting.

        The most extreme bock variation is a super-strong version called Eisbock. If you partially freeze a strong beer, then remove some of the ice, you leave behind an even stronger beer with both flavor and alcohol concentrated in the reduced volume.

        Look for Kulmbacher Reichelbrau Eisbock. It boasts a powerful caramel malt aroma, with a rich, nutty,dense malt flavor. A lingering dry malty finish almost hides the high alcohol content.

        YOu won't find the stronger (and often better) bock beers in Cincinnati, but a quick trip across the river to Kentucky to a store like Covington's Cork & Bottle should fill your basket with liquid bread.

        Ed Westemeier is a master beer judge, home brewer and writer who lives in New Richmond. E-mail: hopfen@malz.com.

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