For about six hours each spring, blue crabs swim around without their shells. They've shed the old ones and the new haven't hardened. If you catch a crab right then, you can eat it shell and all.

        Fortunately, the crabs take turns going through this process, so soft-shell season lasts several months rather than several hours. It's just now beginning, and quite a few restaurants are featuring soft-shells as dinner or appetizer specials.

        Some restaurants served soft shells last weekend, and more will add them over the next few weeks. Usually they are served deep-fried or sauteed, which keeps the soft shell crispy, but they can inspire a wide variety of preparations. Here are a few restaurants that will have them on the menu:

        • At J's Fresh Seafood in Hyde Park, chef-owner Jimmy Gherardi says he does “everything” to soft-shell crabs. Sauteed in a caramel-hazelnut sauce. Breaded and fried with Thai sweet-hot chili sauce. Grilled. With Frangelico sauce on basmati rice. The dinner specials are mostly three crabs for $24.95.

        • At Germano's in Montgomery, you might have soft shells sauteed alla franchese, dipped in an egg batter. Or maybe on capellini with pomodoro sauce basilico, or with a Cajun Diane sauce. A couple of jumbos are $34.95.

        • At South Beach Grill at the Waterfront in Covington last weekend, soft-shells were served dredged and pan-seared on top of a mesclun salad with crab mayo and a truffle-chive butter. One for an appetizer was $11, two for an entree were $24. The chefs will vary preparations throughout the season.

        Other restaurants where you can satisfy a seasonal crab craving are Scalea's in Covington; Jeff Ruby's, downtown; Jimmy D's in Montgomery and Michael G's in Columbia Tusculum.

        E-mail: pcampbell@enquirer.com.

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