Not just any recipes — the best recipes.

        She stepped out of the test kitchen for a few minutes to answer questions about Cooks' latest book: The Best Recipe: Grilling & Barbecue (Boston Common Press; $29.95).

        Question: What's the process for testing recipes at Cooks' Illustrated?

        Answer: Let's say we were trying to come up with the best chocolate chip recipe. We'd research all the recipes and then choose maybe five different recipes to make. After we made the cookies, we'd decide what we liked about each and what we didn't like. Then we'd start building a recipe. Our goal would be to wind up with a cookie that always comes out the same. One person would do all this testing. After we develop the recipe, we'd give the recipe to another person to test, then we'd give it to another person who isn't a great cook to see if anyone can make the recipe. This might take from two weeks to a month.

        Q: What's different about developing the best recipes for the grill?

        A: How we measure temperature is one of the biggest differences. For baking, we measure oven temperature in degrees. For grilling, we measure temperature by how long you can hold your hand above the coals.

        Q: Are you ever concerned that, by making these recipes so scientific, you're taking the fun and adventure out of cooking?

        A: Not really. Many people in my generation (she's 28) don't know how to cook, so I think they're interested in having recipes that work.

        Q: Is there a recipe in the book of which you're especially proud?

        A: I really love the beef kebabs. I've eaten so many kebabs that are dry and the vegetables fall off the skewers. But for our recipe, we use a blade steak that's inexpensive and easy to cut. Another good thing is the cherry tomatoes and other vegetables get done at the same time. Oh, and I also really like the recipe for grill-roasted turkey. I did that one.

        Q: What would you say is the most common problem for people who grill?

        A: I'd say it's not knowing how to use charcoal appropriately. You don't need to use a lot of charcoal, you just need to know when to add it.

        Q: Which do you prefer — a gas or charcoal grill?

        A: Charcoal. I like the flavor and I like the control of the heat. I can get my grill hotter using charcoal, and I think it's more fun.

        Q: What kind of grill do you use?

        A: A 22-inch Weber. I love the kettle shape because I can get whole turkeys under the cover.

        Q: Solve the salt dilemma for us. Do you salt meat before or after you grill it?

        A: Salt meat just before you grill it. If you salt it too early, it can draw the juices out.

        Q: What is your favorite food to grill?

        A: I like to grill potatoes for potato salad. I blanch them a couple of minutes and chop them before putting them on. I also love to grill burgers. I can't eat enough burgers. Eighty percent-lean is the best meat to use. You need that for flavor.

        Q: Do you have fond memories of grilling as a kid?

        A: In the summer, I used to take beer out to my dad (Dwight). Sometimes he'd give me a drop to drink.

        Q: Is your dad a good griller?

        A: Pretty good. His specialty is this tamari chicken thing that he keeps a secret. We still grill together. And we still have the same argument about how much charcoal to use.

        Ms. Collin will answer more questions and sign copies of The Best Recipe: Grilling & Barbecue 7 p.m. Monday at Barnes & Noble, 895 E. Kemper Road, Springdale (671-3822); and 4:30 p.m. Tuesday at Barnes & Noble, 9891 Waterstone Blvd., Deerfield Township (683-5599).

Charcoal-Grilled Beef Kebabs

Marinade
        1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
       3 medium garlic cloves, minced
        3/4 teaspoon salt
        1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

Meat
       2 pounds top blade steaks (about 4 to 5 steaks), trimmed and cut into 1 1/4-inch cubes

Fruit And Vegetables
       1 pineapple (about 3 1/2 pounds), peeled, cored and cut into 1-inch cubes
       1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch wide wedges
       1 medium yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 1-inch wide wedges
       2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
       Salt and black pepper, to taste
       1 large red onion, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch thick wedges
       Lemon or lime wedges (optional)

        “Butterfly” each steak cube by cutting it almost through at the center. Mix marinade ingredients in bowl, add steak cubes and toss to coat evenly. Cover and refrigerate 1 to 24 hours.

        Toss pineapple and peppers with 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil in bowl and season with salt and pepper. Brush onion with remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

        Using 8 12-inch metal skewers, thread each skewer with a pineapple piece, onion wedge and a cube of meat, and one piece of each kind of pepper. Repeat sequence two or three times. Brush meat and vegetables with any remaining oil.

        Grill skewers over medium-hot fire, turning each kebab 1/4 turn every 1 3/4 minutes until meat is well-browned, about 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer skewers to serving tray and squeeze lemon or lime wedges over kebabs, if desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

        Adapted from The Best Recipe: Grilling & Barbecue
       Contact Chuck Martin by phone: 768-8507; fax: 768-8330; e-mail: cmartin@enquirer.com.

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