I enjoy all the comments I get in response to the column, and I want to share one with you that really got me thinking.

        John Waggal of Cincinnati liked the mention of Timothy Holian's book, Over the Barrel (Sudhaus Press; $24.95) and pointed out that there is some dispute about the first Cincinnati brewery. While this book credits Davis Embree's 1812 brewery as the original, there are other sources (which Mr. Holian acknowledges) that point to an 1806 brewing operation by James Dover, and possibly two unnamed brewers in 1805.

        It's a fascinating question, but unfortunately we don't have any documentation for the earlier businesses. We wonder if there might be someone reading this who knows more about those early days, or who has some precious piece of paper that mentions the topic.

        Mr. Waggal theorizes there is probably a wealth of breweriana stashed away in attics and other places around town that would be of great value to those of us interested in the rich brewing history of Cincinnati, or the history of this area in general. Some people might not even realize the significance and just think they have some “old brewery stuff gathering dust,” he says.

        I think he's right, and I wonder if there might be some way to “tap” that treasure trove. Surely with all the brewing history experienced by our readers and their relatives, we can turn over a few more dusty piles of paper and find something to satisfy our curiosity.

        If you have, or know someone who has, any early Cincinnati brewing memorabilia, why not tell us about it? We can lethistorians take a look to see what they can learn, make a copy, and then return your originals. We might all learn a lot more than expected.

        Introducing "cellar beer': Today's other topic is a beer style that is virtually unknown in this country. Keller bier (roughly “cellar beer”) is a most unusual brew that has been popular in Germany for several hundred years.

        Keller bier is like a traditional German lager beer with two important differences. First, it has a much more generous addition of hops than most German beers. That alone should make it a hit in this country, but keller bier brewers do something that no other German brewer does, to my knowledge. The beer is aged in cold cellars in oak barrels that are vented to the atmosphere.

        This sort of open fermentation is generally thought of as a British specialty, but an outstanding example of Keller bier is available from the St. Georgen Brau brewery, one of the most traditional producers of the style (well, at least since 1624). It's a deep copper color, with a low carbonation level (not much head) that makes you think of an English ale. In fact, I think it combines the best qualities of lager and ale.

        You'll be surprised by the rich, robust hop flavor, and the beer just keeps getting better as it warms up in your glass. If you have a German stein, that's the best way to enjoy one. Keller bier is unpasteurized and unfiltered, so it's quite cloudy and has a bit of sediment on the bottom of the bottle. I think it's one of the most unusual German beers around, and I pick a couple up whenever I can.

       Contact Ed Westemeier by e-mail: hopfen@malz.com.

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