Nestled in the Green Mountains, Vermont Butter & Cheese Co. gives us a delicious excuse to expand our indulgent horizons. The small company, which produces goat's milk and cow's milk cheeses, also makes perhaps the best domestic version of creme fraiche (krehm-FRESH), the mature, thickened and slightly tangy cream cultured by the French for centuries.

        This creme fraiche may be more authentic because VermontButter's cheesemaker, Allison Hooper, apprenticed on French dairy farms before she and a partner started the Vermont company in 1984.

        In addition to its characteristic tart edge, Vermont Butter's creme fraiche has a rich, nutty and buttery background flavor and a firm texture that resembles soft margarine more than sour cream. Creme fraiche makes a wonderful topping for fresh berries, tarts and pies (add a little sugar if it's too tart for your taste). Because it doesn't curdle, it can also be added to boiling soups and sauces.

        Vermont Butter & Cheese Co.'s creme fraiche is available in the cheese case at Wild Oats at Rookwood Commons in Norwood (531-8015) for $4.99 per 8 ounces. A little goes a long way (it should keep three weeks, refrigerated), but if that seems pricey, here's how to make your own, from Food Lover's Companion (Barron's; $14.95):

        Mix 2 tablespoons buttermilk with 1 cup heavy cream (preferably not sterilized or ultra-pasteurized). Allow cream to sit, covered, at room temperature (70 degrees) eight to 24 hours, until very thick. Stir well and refrigerate. Creme fraiche will become thicker as it chills.

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