Question: Forget steak. I want a big slab of good prime rib. Who has it?

        Answer: I agree, good prime rib is a special treat. Cushioned in fat and usually roasted very slowly, it's more tender than the best steak, but still has a deeply meaty, beefy taste. If it's really served “au jus,” not messed up with phony beef bouillon or thickened gravy, it's one of my favorite meat experiences.

        Looking over the last few years of reviews, here are restaurants where I've enjoyed prime rib:

        • Nicholson's, downtown, and deSha's, Symmes Township, do prime rib particularly well, serving it with sauteed mushrooms and pearl onions and potatoes baked in salt.

        • Palomino, downtown, serves a crusty, smoky prime rib done on the rotisserie, and served with hearty swiss chard and horseradish on the side.

        • F&N Steakhouse in Dayton, Ky., was another of my favorites. Good enough to order the “heavy cut.”

        • Other good prime ribs were enjoyed at the Golden Lamb in Lebanon, Parker's Blue Ash Grill and Riverview Revolving Restaurant in Covington.

                Send questions to dining critic Polly Campbell by fax: 768-8330; e-mail: pcampbell@enquirer.com.

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