Wednesday, September 12, 2001
Authentic German recipes include Tristate favorites
We requested favorite German recipes for today's special section. These are authentic recipes that represent some of the many popular German specialties that have become a part of Cincinnati's culinary heritage.
Real Rotkohl: Renate Drexl Glenn of Southgate often serves dishes from her homeland to dinner guests. This is one often requested and is usually served alongside sauerbraten.
Renate's Red Cabbage (Rotkohl)
2 1/2 pounds red cabbage
2/3 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium cooking apples, peeled and thinly sliced
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 whole small onion, peeled and pierced with 3 whole cloves
1 bay leaf
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup dry red wine
1/4 cup red currant jelly
Wash and core cabbage. Remove outer leaves and cut into wedges. Slice cabbage into shreds. Put into a large bowl and toss with vinegar, sugar and salt.
In a large heavy pot, melt the butter and add the apples and the chopped onion. Saute, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the cabbage, whole onion, bay leaf and water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer over low heat 30 minutes. Uncover and cook 15 minutes longer to reduce liquid. Stir in wine and jelly and cook just long enough to heat through. Makes 8 servings.
From the old country: This recipe is just in time for cool weather when such a hearty dish is welcome fare. This comes from Richard Fisher of Hamilton.
Transylvanian Goulash
1 pound sauerkraut
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
1/4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
2 tablespoons sweet Hungarian paprika
3 cups chicken stock or water
2 pounds boneless shoulder of pork, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 1/2 teaspoons caraway seed
1 cup tomato puree
Salt
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons flour
Drain and rinse the sauerkraut thoroughly. Saute onions in the oil over moderate heat 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic. Remove from heat and stir in the paprika. Stir until onions are thoroughly coated. Add 1/2 cup of stock or water and return to heat. Bring to a boil. Add the pork cubes.
Spread sauerkraut over pork in casserole and sprinkle with caraway seed. In a small bowl, combine tomato puree and the remaining stock or water. Pour into the pot and bring to a boil. Cover casserole tightly and simmer 1 hour, checking for adequate liquid. (Sauerkraut should be moist.)
When pork is tender, combine sour cream and heavy cream in a bowl. Beat and add flour. Stir the mixture into the casserole. Simmer 10 minutes. Serve with more sour cream for spooning over the top and the following potato dumplings.
Potato Dumplings (Kartoffelkloese)
6 medium potatoes, unpeeled
2 eggs
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup flour
Croutons
1/2 cup butter
1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
Boil potatoes uncovered until tender. Pass potatoes through food mill. Add eggs, salt and flour. Beat batter with fork until fluffy. Roll it lightly around croutons and form into balls about 1 inch in diameter. Drop dumplings into large pot of gently boiling, salted water. Cook gently about 10 minutes and drain well. Melt butter and stir in bread crumbs. Sprinkle buttered crumbs over dumplings.
My own contribution: From the years I lived in Berlin. This is a favorite I've shared with cooking students. The secret is to get the potato shreds as dry as possible. Please note baking potatoes are the best choice for this recipe.
Berliner Kartoffelpuffer (Berlin-Style Potato Pancakes)
2 1/2 pounds baking potatoes
1/4 cup flour
2 large eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup finely chopped onion
3 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/4 cup light cream
Vegetable oil for frying
Applesauce (optional)
Peel and shred the potatoes. Place in the center of a large clean dish towel and squeeze firmly to remove as much liquid as possible. Set aside.
Whisk together flour and eggs. Stir in the salt, pepper, onion and parsley. Stir potatoes into the mixture and add the cream.
Pour enough oil in a heavy skillet to 1/4-inch thickness. Heat until very hot (375 degrees), and ladle in a large spoonful of batter for each pancake. Press lightly with back of the spoon to flatten slightly. They should be approximately 3 inches in diameter. Cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side until browned. Remove to paper towel lined plate, then onto a baking sheet to keep in a warm oven until serving time. Makes 16 to 18 pancakes. Serve with fresh applesauce.
Reader Requests
Favorite cake: Busken's bakery used to offer a prune cake, writes George Naegle of Oakley. It was a dark colored cake and very moist. Does anyone have a recipe for something similar?
Soup remembered: Dona Crosby of Loveland remembers a marvelous soup from Zino's in Hyde Park filled with potatoes, chicken and clear broth. Anyone have a recipe for it?
Lost pie: Eileen Waters misplaced her copy of the recipe for vinegar pie. Who can help her out?
Contact Marilyn Harris by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer; fax: 768-8330; e-mail: marilyn@55krc.com. Include name, address and daytime telephone number.
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