Germany is world famous for its beer, and deservedly so. The Oktoberfest style will be on display for the next month or so, as a classic seasonal beer. Like other lagers, it needs time in cool storage to develop character, so brewing takes place long before it's ready to serve.

        Originally, oktoberfest beer represented the last batches brewed in the spring. Before the widespread use of refrigeration, summer was too hot for brewing, since the beer was likely to spoil. Barrels filled before warm weather arrived were stored, or “lagered,” in cool caves over the summer. When harvest time came around, the beer had improved so much it was something special.

        Most of us are familiar with the story of how the Bavarian crown prince held a huge wedding celebration in 1810, where the citizens of Munich had such a good time, they repeat it every year. The festival gave its name to the beer style (actually developed later). Since much of this beer was brewed in the month of March, the style is also often called maerzen, and the terms maerzen, oktoberfest and festbier are now used interchangeably.

Compare local offerings

        If you want a good glass of oktoberfest, you can't go far wrong here in the Tristate. My favorite has always been Paulaner Oktoberfest, but there are so many others that comparing them is lots of fun. Spaten Oktoberfest is another classic, and Ayinger Oktober Fest-Maerzen are equally wonderful. Even our own local Samuel Adams Octoberfest is remarkably true to the authentic German model.

        But don't let this season of German beer pass by without sampling some of the other offerings of the country. We're all familiar with the standard German lagers, such as Beck's, Bitburger, Lowenbrau and Warsteiner. Providing they've been handled carefully and aren't past their shelf life, these can be marvelous, flavorful beers that stand out from the typical American megabrews.

        If you haven't had the specialty beer of Cologne, you should try Reissdorf Koelsch. It's a soft, rich, golden ale (not a lager), available on draft at a number of area bars, and will soon be here in bottles.

        For a late summer barbecue or a dinner filled with strong flavored meats, you might feel adventurous and try a schlenkerla smoked beer. This Bavarian specialty is available in three styles: maerzen, bock and weizen.

        Speaking of bock, that other German masterpiece gets a lot of action in the spring, but many bock beers are available year round. Paulaner Salvator, and maibocks from Ayinger and Hofbrauhaus are highly recommended.

        Wheat beers were once reserved for the nobility. Today they are most common in the south of Germany, but a popular summertime beverage everywhere. Wheat beers are known as weizen or weiss beers, or sometimes hefe-weizen if completely unfiltered and cloudy. By the way, all that cloudy yeast sediment is loaded with B-vitamins, and considered a health food by some.

        Paulaner, Schneider, Weihenstephan and Ayinger are probably the classics. A memorable combination can be found in the Schneider specialty, Aventinus, which is both a wheat beer and a doppelbock beer.

Truly an original

        Finally, and this is only for the truly adventurous, don't overlook the specialty beer of Berlin. Berliner Weisse, available here under the Kindl label, is incredibly tart, acidic, and absolutely unforgettable. Personally, I love it, but it's definitely an acquired taste.

        By the way, I'll be attending the original Oktoberfest celebration in Munich Sept. 22-Oct. 7. I'm sure I'll return with new ideas and recommendations for German beer.

        Contact Ed Westemeier by e-mail: hopfen@malz.com.

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