German rieslings are the Rodney Dangerfield of wines. They get no respect. Even Germans themselves — at least during Oktoberfest — emphasize beer almost to the exclusion of wines — even their own wines.

        Move up, Rodney. You've been replaced at the bottom of the pecking order.

        Well, I've had enough of this. I'm pouring a glass of German riesling and toasting equal rights among beverages. Bring on the sauerkraut, brats, sauerbraten, potato pancakes and spaetzle. The clean crisp flavors of German riesling will pair well with almost any food you'll find at Oktoberfest.

        When selecting a German wine, keep in mind they are classified primarily according to the ripeness of grapes at harvest, a key in such a northern climate. Two broad categories commonly found in the Tristate are QbA (Qualitatswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete) and the generally higher quality QmP (Qualitatswein mit Pradikat) wines.

        The QmP wines have six levels of ripeness. From Kabinett to Spatlese to Auslese, greater ripeness doesn't always mean greater sweetness, so look for “Trocken” (“Dry”) or “Halbtrocken” (“Half Dry”) on the label; all other wines tend to be sweeter.

        Wines of the three higher levels of ripeness (Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese) are always sweet, always expensive, and often among the world's finest dessert wines.
       @subHed:Taster's favorites
       @ColText:

        I've been fortunate to have tasted many enjoyable German wines over the past summer. Here are some of my favorites (in alphabetical order within category). Now if only vineyards were more common in Bavaria.

        Highly recommended

Georg Breuer 1999 “Qualitatswein, GB, Rheingau” ($15).

        Dr. Burklin-Wolf 1999 “Burklin Estate, Pfalz” ($15).

        Dr. Burklin-Wolf 1998 “Gaisbohl Ruppertsberg, Pfalz” ($40).

        Dr. Fischer 1999 “Auslese, Ockfener Bockstein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($34; 375 ml).

        Gunderloch 1999 “Qualitatswein, Dry, Rheinhessen” ($16).

        Gunderloch 1999 “Spatlese, Nackenheim Rothenberg, Rheinhessen” ($27).

        Schloss Vollrads 1999 “"Qualitatswein, Trocken, Rheingau”" ($15).

        Recommended

        Reinhold Haart 1997 “Kabinett, Piesporter Goldtropfchen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($20; $11 for 375 ml).

        Monchhof (Robert Eymael) 1999 “Spatlese, Urziger Wurzgarten, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($21).

        Schmitt-Schenk 1998 “Kabinett, Ayler Kupp, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($12).

        Schmitt Sohne 1998 “Classic, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($14).

        Schloss Schoenborn 1999 “Kabinett, Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg, Rheingau” ($11).

        Studert-Prum 2000 “Kabinett, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($10).

        Dr. H. Thanisch 1999 “Spatlese, Berncasterler Doctor, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($35).

        Schloss Vollrads 1999 “Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Rheingau” ($17).

        Balduin von Hovel 1999 “Qualitatswein, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($13).

        von Othegraven 1998 “Maximus, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” ($18).

        Contact John Vankat by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer; phone: (800) 524-1005; fax: 768-8330.

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