Sunday, September 16, 2001
Restaurants where every day's Oktoberfest
Ask the critic
By Polly Campbell
The Cincinnati Enquirer
Question: I liked eating German food in the street at Oktoberfest. What restaurants can I go to for more?
Answer: There are fewer German restaurants than you might think in Cincinnati, but if you have the urge for smoked pork chops and sauerkraut, that can be arranged.
Mecklenburg Gardens in Corryville goes back to a time when there was a substantial immigrant German community in Cincinnati. It still has the best atmosphere, with a outdoor garden covered with vines and an old historic bar. Try the schnitzel and strudel. 221-5353.
The Black Forest in West Chester Township has all the German atmosphere you'd want, with beer steins and timbered ceilings. It also has live music on weekends and a totally German menu. 777-7600.
Wertheim's in Covington, between the bell tower and the Goose Girl statue, serves schnitzel along with American dishes. (859) 261-1233.
The Iron Skillet in Newtown is more strictly Hungarian, but it serves some of the best sauerbraten and schnitzel in town, and certainly the best sauerkraut balls. It's crowded, but it's a must if you like hearty European food. 561-6776.
Other restaurants that aren't strictly German but serve dishes that reflect the Tristate's Germanic heritage include several on the west side. At Ron's Roost, there's always sauerbraten, hot slaw and, this time of year, other German dishes; 574-0222 . Beech Flats serves traditional food with a Germanic touch; 481-1111. So does Habig's, where sauerbraten's on the menu and hot bacon slaw is the thing to have before dinner; 481-9796.
The Sherman House in Batesville has schnitzel, served in a comfortable historic dining room. (812) 934-1000.
Christof's in Glendale is not a German restaurant, and its menu changes frequently, but it often includes stuffed cabbage or other homey, middle-European dishes. 772-4300.
Contact Polly Campbell by fax: 768-8330; e-mail: pcampbell@enquirer.com.
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