Fall is here, and the apples are ripening fast. For many Americans, including me, this means cider time.

        Right off the bat, let's get one thing straight: If you're used to the term “hard cider,” fine with me, but I think it's redundant. Cider is a fermented alcoholic beverage, just like beer and wine. It's usually about the same strength as beer, but it is made from fermented apple juice instead of grain.

        In some parts of the country, freshly pressed apple juice is called “sweet cider” to distinguish it from “hard cider,” but I think that's more of a regional expression than a definition. There's nothing wrong with apple juice, of course. It's just not cider, in my book.

        Cider, like beer, is a traditional American drink. In Revolutionary War times, you would have seen broadsheets circulated that exhorted people to drink beer and cider. The reason was simple: The other popular drink of the day was rum, made from West Indies sugar cane and under the control of the British. So it was patriotic to drink locally brewed beer and cider.

        It still is, but I have to admit British ciders are truly excellent. Cider is more popular on the other side of the pond. That may be because of the wider variety available in England, but American ciders are good, too. Besides, they're more reasonably priced.

        Ciders have a wide range of flavors, due largely to the many varieties of apples used. You can find them in light or dark styles, as well as sweet, dry or in between.

        Most ciders are blends of several types of apples, but there are a few that use only one variety. For example, Woodchuck brand cider from Vermont offers a cider made only from Granny Smith apples.

        A few ciders are flavored with pears and other ingredients.

        If you have never tried cider, I think you might be surprised at how tasty it can be. Hops are not used to make cider, so there's none of the bitterness that turns off newcomers to craft beers. My wife, for example, doesn't drink beer, but always enjoys a glass of good cider. The flavor of the apples offers an extra dimension that most people appreciate.

        At this time of year, you can find ciders from a number of producers. In fact, there may be a dozen ciders available at your favorite beer merchant. Among English brands, you might look for Blackthorn, "K' Strongbow or Woodpecker English ciders tend to be the most interesting, but American ciders can almost always be depended upon to offer flavor in an easy drinking form.

        Some good American brands include Hornsby's, Hardcore and Woodchuck. By the way, Hardcore ciders are produced at Cincinnati's Samuel Adams Brewery.

        If you're a beer lover, why not try a cider this season? I think you'll find it flavorful and refreshingly different.

        For a marvelous introduction to cider, you couldn't do much better than Westons Cider. It's a medium sweet, oak-conditioned English import, available at Jungle Jim's Market in Fairfield for 99 cents per 500 ml bottle — less than half the regular price. It's aged in oak for six months, giving a complex undertone to the sweet apple flavor. I like the Westons, and not just for the bargain price.

       Contact Ed Westemeier by e-mail: hopfen@malz.com.

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