Spain may be one of the world's great wine countries — first in vineyard acreage and third in wine production — but from the perspective of American palates, Spain hasn't deserved to be ranked with France and Italy.

        The reason? In the past, Spanish wines tended to be over-aged, therefore lacking freshness, fruitiness and richness.

        Although many Spanish winemakers are producing wines in a style more appealing to Americans, Spanish wines remain a hard sell. Not only is it difficult to change an image, but many of Spain's grape varieties are unfamiliar to Americans. And, Spanish wines can be too inexpensive. That's right, too inexpensive.

        Mark Maher, owner of Cutting Edge Selections, top distributor of Spanish wines in the Tristate, says: “The biggest obstacle I face is customers assuming that inexpensive Spanish wines can't be good wines. In fact, these wines probably would sell better if they cost more.”

        Hmmm, good but inexpensive wines? I know it sounds too good to be true, but I recently tasted a few dozen Spanish red wines and found several to be great bargains. Most stunning was the Borja 2000 “Borsao, Campo de Borja” ($7). I'd put this grenache-tempranillo blend into blind tastings against bottles costing two to four times as much and expect it to win every time.

        It has an attractive purplish red color; vivid, complex aroma; and refined flavors that feature huge fruit, medium-full body and intensity, medium-soft tannins, very good balance and an extended finish. Highly recommended.

        Its sister wine, Borja 2000 “Grenache, Vina Borgia, Campo de Borja” ($6; $10 1.5 liter), is lighter and softer, but it also has the forward fruit and long finish. Recommended.

        For a more full-bodied wine, another of my favorite Spanish reds is Casa Castillo 1998 “Las Gravas, Jumilla” ($20). Bigger, bolder, more tannic than the Borsao, it's still fruit-based and has exceptional color. I'd suggest cellaring a case for a couple years and then serving it in place of pricey California cabernet. Highly recommended.

        For a bargain-priced, lighter version of the Las Gravas, try the same producer's Casa Castillo 1999 “Monastrell, Jumilla” ($9). Recommended.

        Another of my favorites is Falset-Marca 1999 “Etim, Old Vines Grenache, Tarragona” ($12). Its flavor profile lies between the smooth Borsao and the bolder Las Gravas. Highly recommended.

        Yet another excellent bargain is Vega Sindoa 2000 “Tempranillo-Merlot, Navarra” ($7). This soft, medium-bodied, fruit-dominated wine is ideal for wine newcomers as well as anyone looking for an everyday red. Recommended.

        Many other Spanish reds, especially those I tasted from the famous Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions, were too acidic for my tastes. For wine lovers who appreciate such wines, my favorites (in alphabetical order) are:

        • Abadia Retuerta 1997 “Sardon de Duero” ($27).

        • Allende 1997 “Rioja” ($18).

        • Breton 1997 “Lorinon, Rioja” ($15).

        • Condado de Haza 1998 “Ribera del Duero” ($20).

        • Faustino 1995 “V, Rioja” ($17).

        • Mas Igneus 1999 “Barrac dels Closos, Prioriat” ($13).

        • Montecillo 1996 “Reserva, Rioja” ($18).

        • Muga 1994 “Reserva, Rioja” ($30).

        • Sierra Cantabria 1997 “Rioja” ($13).

        • Solabal 1997 “Crianza, Rioja” ($13).
       Contact John Vankat by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer; fax: 768-8330.

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