Lyons Grille is one of those handy neighborhood spots you can turn to when cooking a meal is the last thing on your mind, but you want more carry-out options than pizza or Chinese.

        In a modest storefront on South Fort Thomas Avenue near the Veterans Administration Hospital, the restaurant has two dining rooms, both smartly decorated in green and white, and there is a small patio with a few tables and chairs. While certainly a destination for local diners, Lyons Grille does a nice carryout business. You choose from the regular menu, and the staff is helpful in steering you from items that don't travel well, such as the caramel apple pie.

        Appetizer classics, including oysters Rockefeller ($6.95) and fettuccine Alfredo ($5.50) appear with trendy newcomers, such as sauteed portabella mushroom ($5.95). The generously portioned fettuccine travels home well. Dressed with its creamy cheese sauce, the pasta remains firm despite a trip through the microwave. Crab cakes ($6.95) are simply done, though over-processed, with a small dollop of red pepper puree. A larger dollop would be nice.

        There are many fish and seafood entrees and homey meat dishes — liver and onions ($12.95) and meatloaf ($10.95). Veal Piccata ($13.95) is very good; the breading remains crisp, and the meat tender while briny capers give the dish a zesty flavor boost. Baked Alaskan halibut ($13.95) is flaky and moist, topped with a subtle herb butter sauce and bits of crab.

        The night I tried Lyons Grille, both dinners came with a delicious tomato and artichoke ragout that went especially well with the veal, and a light scalloped potato dish. Salads and soups also are available to take home. And, of course, dessert. Chocolate Dream Cake and key lime pie ($4.95/slice) are both good. The cake is a mousse-filled layer cake, moist and rich with chocolate. The pie stands out with grated coconut added to the graham cracker crust and a tart, creamy filling that isn't cloyingly sweet. Treat yourself. Try Lyons Grille.

        Lyons Grille, 1109 S. Fort Thomas Ave., Fort Thomas; (859) 442-9555. Dinner 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.

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