I just returned from the Oktoberfest celebration in Munich, and the word of the day is “unbelievable.” Oktoberfest exceeded my expectations in every way.

        Cincinnati's Oktoberfest is the world's second largest, but just a pale shadow of the original in Munich, where it has been held nearly every year since 1810.

        I spent most of the time at the Lowenbrau tent, with nearly 6,000 of my closest friends. I especially enjoyed their limited-edition Oktoberfest beer, which is just slightly stronger and more full-bodied than their regular beer.

        The central feature of the Oktoberfest area is the more than a dozen beer “tents.” They were originally canvas tents, but today they're gigantic, semi-permanent structures, made with huge wooden beams. Each holds between 2,000 and 10,000 people seated on benches at massive wooden tables.

        Actually, many of the festival-goers are rarely seated, but standing on the benches, stomping, drinking from huge glass 1-liter mugs and singing. There is a bandstand in the center of each tent. The music is excellent, and designed to encourage everyone to join in. For example, I heard such traditional old Bavarian folk songs as “Country Roads” and “New York, New York.”

        Entering a beer tent can be total sensory overload, but you get caught up in the atmosphere almost instantly, and in no time you find yourself clapping and singing with everyone else. It's really the world's largest party and truly a friendly gathering.

        Beyond the beer tents, Oktoberfest boasts a huge amusement park with some of the most incredible rides I've seen, and a “midway” offering every conceivable game, snack and souvenir.

        This seems like a good time to clear up a common misconception. Americans often are surprised when they visit Germany and don't see the wide array of German beers that are available in stores here. Germany is not a large country — slightly smaller than Montana. But there are nearly as many breweries there as in the United States. As a result, most beer is local beer, and there is seldom as much choice as we are used to.

        This isn't a bad thing, because it means the beer you order is usually brewed locally. It's both fresh and delicious. But a typical beer garden in Munich will only have a limited selection, generally no more than three standard beers, except for special seasonal brews such as bock or Oktoberfest.

        The standard “helles” is a golden lager that looks like the standard beer found around the world, but is much more full flavored than most. The “dunkel” is a darker version with more malty and complex flavor.

        The third standard choice is the famous Bavarian “weissbier” — very pale and made with wheat and special yeasts. This is the wonderfully refreshing beer with the flavor accents of clove, banana and vanilla. Sometimes it's cloudy with suspended yeast, sometimes filtered to be crystal clear.

        One thing I particularly want to mention is that on this trip, just as in the past, I never was served a weissbier with lemon. I wish we could cure American bartenders of this annoying habit. If you want lemon — and few Germans do — you should have to ask for it.

        Contact Ed Westemeier by e-mail: hopfen@malz.com.

KIESEWETTER: We love 'Lucy' 50 years later
'I Love Lucy' trivia
Film world struggles to find its role
Movies affected by Sept. 11 attacks
Ballet crew finds kindness in Russia Sept. 11
Maria replaces Clara in new 'Nutcracker'
Ballet fans will miss Russians
Jones' dance routines reveal some secrets
DEMALINE: Kids dinner theater gets second act
Bouncy 'Twelfth Night' takes unlikely dark turn
'Bowling' a funny take on love and disability
Bowlwright looks out for logs
Martial-arts belts symbolize accomplishment
DAUGHERTY: With this ring, I vow to 'discuss' and 'cuddle'
Sweet on sweet potatoes
Very best Oktoberfest is Munich's
Cyber chat continues in print
Get to it
KENDRICK: Down syndrome can mean full life
NBC's comedies survive first night of 'Survivor 3'