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Sunday, December 02, 2001

Call ahead to customize meal at Daveed's


Ask the critic

By Polly Campbell
The Cincinnati Enquirer

        Question: I love the experience of a tasting menu (small tastes of many dishes.) Other than the degustation menu at Maisonette, do any restaurants offer this style of dining?

        Answer: You'll want to try Daveed's in Mount Adams. The staff will put together a tasting menu for you from six courses to as many courses as you want. The charge is $15 per course per person, which includes a glass of wine (a 2-ounce pour) selected to go with each course.

        Liz and David Cook, Daveed's owners, ask that you call ahead at least a day to reserve a tasting menu. That way, they can customize a menu to suit your tastes and level of adventure.

        A sample tasting menu includes a dish of Digby Bay scallop and Fiji opaka-paka with ruby-red grapefruit segments, tomato, olive and anchovy tapenade, cumin tuile, curly cress and pea shoots, served with 1999 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett.

        Chef Cook never misses an opportunity to use foie gras, such as a pan-seared and grilled foie gras with corn flan, pears, pistachio brioche, ginger-snap crumbs and late-harvest gastrique. That might be served with a 1997 Chateau Roumieux Sauternes.

        Obviously, you'll want to set the evening aside if you order six to eight courses of such fare.

        Daveed's is at 934 Hatch St., 721-2665.

        Questions or comments to dining critic Polly Campbell by fax: 768-8330; e-mail: pcampbell@enquirer.com.

       

       



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