Sunday, December 16, 2001

Drop, dash and dribble


Many cooks consider concentrated flavor from a bottle their secret ingredient

By Chuck Martin
The Cincinnati Enquirer

        Cooks are crazy about condiments — a sprinkle of spice, splash of sweet vinegar, dribble of flavored oil — that makes their food taste better (although some may not admit they rely on such secret ingredients).

        If you're stumped over what to give your favorite cook this holiday season, consider presenting these delicious flavors in bottles. Some day soon, the recipient may reward you with an even tastier meal.

        Urbani White Truffle Oil ($33/8 ounces): The flavor of white truffles is elusive — sensual, earthy and musky. Unfortunately, fresh white truffles are exorbitantly expensive and highly perishable. White truffle oil, made by steeping the rare fungus in extra-virgin olive oil, is more reasonably priced and keeps well in the refrigerator. Spoon it on pasta, potatoes, cheese and other dishes, and the flavor is ethereal — about as close as you'll get to fresh truffle.

        Look for Urbani and other Italian white truffle oil at stores and gourmet shops such as Jungle Jim's in Fairfield, Hyde Park Gourmet Food & Wine and Cooks' Wares in Symmes and West Chester townships. Also order from Earthy Delights (www.earthy.com or 800-367-4709). (Memo to Santa: Please note my bottle of truffle oil, seen in photo, is half-empty.)

        Cavali Balsamic Seasoning ($18/8.4 ounces): There are precious, syrupy balsamic vinegars aged 20 or more years that cost hundreds of dollars, and there are cheap and harsh-tasting counterfeit supermarket balsamics. In between is this Italian product, called “balsamic seasoning,” made by fermenting and aging concentrated grape musts and vinegars. It's much better than the stuff from the grocery, but priced to be used every day in vinaigrettes and sauces. Available at Jungle Jim's Market and from A Cook's Wares (www.cookswares and 800-915-9788).

        Lapiano Fig Balsamic Vinegar ($8.99/8.8 ounces): Fig-flavored balsamics are all the rage, but this brand (with the figs on the label) from Italy is the figgyest I've tasted. Sweet and fruity, the dark vinegar even floats tiny crunchy fig seeds. Whisk it into vinaigrettes or sweet-sour marinades. Available at Dorothy Lane Markets in Dayton (937-299-3561 and 937-434-1294). See www.dorothylane.com for store locations.

        Tra Vigne Balsamic Cooking Sauce ($9/8.5 ounces): Beginning to think I have a thing for balsamic vinegar? Made in California from balsamic, roasted meat and chicken stocks, this tasty, thick sauce is also a wonderful table condiment for steaks, chops and fries. Kind of a high-brow A-1 Sauce. Available at Williams-Sonoma.

        Penzey's Vietnam Extra-Fancy Cinnamon ($4.59/1.7 ounces): If you thought all cinnamon was the same, one powerful whiff of this spice will change your mind. Ground from the quality cassia variety harvested in Vietnam, this is the most flavorful cinnamon available. The label even recommends using only two-thirds the amount called for in recipes. Order from www.penzeys.com or 800-741-7787.

        Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce ($3.99/17 ounces): Made from ripened, brick-red jalapenos, garlic and vinegar, this Vietnamese-style sauce adds depth — not just heat — to Asian food, soups, chili and noodles. It comes in a plastic bottle with a cute spout that allows squeezing just the right amount. Available at Saigon Market in Findlay Market, other Asian groceries, Jungle Jim's Market and the Party Source in Bellevue.

        Mae Ploy Sweet Chili Sauce ($1.39/12 ounces): Here are the flavors of Thailand in a bottle: sweet, hot, a little tangy with a strong hit of garlic. Only thing missing is the fish sauce. Designed for dipping grilled chicken and pork, Mae Ploy also complements spring rolls, fried shrimp, fish and roasted potatoes. Available at Jungle Jim's Market and Asian groceries.

        Fusion Napa Valley Verjus ($5.89/12.6 ounces): You hear the advice all the time from wine experts: Don't serve wine with salad because vinegar in the dressing makes the wine taste puckery. But a dressing or vinaigrette made with verjus — the tart, unfermented juice of wine grapes — is OK because it contains no vinegar. So verjus allows your cook or connoisseur to sip wine with greens — and feel trendy, too. Red and white Fusion Verjus is available at Jungle Jim's Market.
        Contact Chuck Martin by phone: 768-8507; fax: 768-8330; e-mail: cmartin@enquirer.com.

       

       



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