Wednesday, December 26, 2001
Gadgets ... and how to use them
Maybe you won't get one of these as a gift, but maybe you will
By Chuck Martin
The Cincinnati Enquirer
So Santa left some cool cooking gadgets under the tree, but you're not quite sure how to operate the machinery? We can help. Here are some of the popular kitchen tools and gadgets, with basic tips for using them.
And hey, if the tubby guy forgot to bring you one of these nifty items, maybe you can drop a heavy hint for another occasion, or use a gift certificate. Too bad you can't exchange a hideous sweater for a Slizzy Slicer.
Butter Bell ($19.95-$24.99): Designed to keep butter soft and safe on the counter from critters, you'd think this crockery would be a cinch to use. But retailers report some folks are struggling. Here's a quick lesson: Pack the bell-shaped lid with softened butter (about 1/2 stick) nearly to the edge. Fill the bottom cup about 1/4 full with cold water. Invert the butter-filled lid into the water-filled container. Accompanying instructions claim the butter will be fine for up to 30 days, but food safety experts say that's a serious stretch. Keep your butter in the bell or otherwise out of refrigeration no longer than four hours. Available at Sur La Table in Rookwood Commons, Norwood, and Cooks' Wares, Symmes Township and West Chester.
George Foreman Grill (ranges in size and price from about $22.99-$99.99): Question: If Muhammad Ali had endorsed an electric grill, would they still have made a hit movie about him? Don't think so. Anyway, here's advice from frequent Foreman Grill users: Clean the grill as soon as possible after cooking. Don't forget to position the grease tray to catch drippings, and don't put the plastic tray in the bottom rack of your dishwasher (it may melt). Finally, chicken and fish cook really fast (2 1/2 to 4 1/4 minutes for 1 inch salmon fillets, 5 to 9 minutes for boneless chicken breasts), so check the food for doneness during cooking. Available at Lazarus and other department stores.
Slizzy Slicer ($36.95): Many believe this type of slicer works just as well as the steel mandolins, which operate on the same principle but cost well over $100. The simple machines produce thinly cut vegetables in different shapes and sizes. No matter what the price, always use the hand guard when guiding vegetables across the sharp blade. Keep young children away from slicers, and wash soon after using. Available at Sur La Table. Similar models available at Cooks' Wares.
Microplane Zester ($10.95-$14.95): This wonderful tool comes in several shapes and sizes, and can be used for finely grating fresh ginger, cheese, lemon and lime zest. Press lightly when grating citrus to avoid getting the bitter white pith in your zest. Clean it quickly with hot water, soap and a brush. Available at Sur La Table and Cooks' Wares.
Demeyere Egg Poacher ($39.95): Anyone can make perfect poached eggs with this device, which features four non-stick egg cups sitting in a pan of hot water. The poacher also can be used to gently cook fruit or keep small portions of food warm. Coat inside of the cups lightly with vegetable oil spray to make egg removal easy, and use a towel or hot pads to remove the cups after cooking to prevent poached fingers. Available at Cooks' Wares and Sur La Table. Williams Sonoma carries a similar poacher for $39.
Maxim Electric Crepe Maker ($24.95): This gizmo defies gravity. Instead of frying the crepes in the pan, you dip the pan into the batter, which adheres to the hot non-stick surface. Turn the pan right side up and the cooked crepe slides off in 45 seconds. The proper pan dipping and turning might require practice, so allow yourself time and make plenty of crepe batter until you get the hang of it. Available at Sur La Table and Cooks' Wares.
Recipes
If Santa brought a Butter Bell . . .
Cinnamon Butter: Cream 4 tablespoons unsalted butter with 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and pinch of sugar. Scrape butter into container, cover and refrigerate. Allow to soften at room temperature before serving.
Orange Butter: Cream 4 tablespoons unsalted butter with 1/2 teaspoon orange zest, 1 teaspoon strained orange juice and 1 teaspoon sugar. Scrape into container, cover and refrigerate.
Honey Butter: Cream 4 tablespoons unsalted butter with 1 tablespoon honey. Scrape into container, cover and refrigerate.
If Santa brought a Slizzy Slicer or mandolin . . .
Pommes Anna
Russet, Yukon Gold or white potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/16 to í-inch thick
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup vegetable or peanut oil, plus additional oil for greasing baking sheet
Salt and black pepper, to taste
Toss potato slices with melted butter in large bowl until potatoes are evenly coated. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 450 degrees.
Pour oil into 10-inch heavy-bottomed ovenproof non-stick skillet. Swirl to coat bottom and set skillet over medium-low heat. Begin timing, and arrange potato slices in skillet, using nicest slices to form bottom layer.
To start, place one slice in center of skillet. Overlap more slices in circle around center slice, then form another circle of overlapping slices to cover pan bottom. Sprinkle evenly with scant 1/4 teaspoon salt and black pepper to taste.
Arrange second layer of potatoes, working in opposite direction of first layer; sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. Repeat, layering potatoes in opposite directions and sprinkling with salt and pepper, until no slices remain. Potatoes will mound in center of skillet.
Continue to cook over medium-low heat until 30 minutes elapse from the time you began arranging potatoes in skillet.
Using bottom of 9-inch cake pan, press potatoes down firmly to compact. Cover skillet and place in oven. Bake until potatoes begin to soften, about 15 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until potatoes are tender, when paring knife can be easily inserted in center and edge of potatoes near skillet is browned, about 10 minutes longer.
Meanwhile, line rimless baking sheet (or back of baking sheet) with foil and coat lightly with oil. Drain excess foil from potatoes by tilting skillet. Set foil-lined baking sheet on top of skillet. Invert skillet and baking sheet together. Lift skillet off potatoes. Carefully slide potatoes from baking sheet onto platter. Cut into wedges and serve. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
The America's Test Kitchen Cookbook (Boston Common Press; $29.95)
If Santa brought a Foreman Grill . . .
Ginger-Lime Swordfish
3 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon grated ginger
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 to 1 1/2 pounds swordfish
Canola or vegetable oil for grid, if using a grill
Salt and pepper, to taste
To make marinade, heat oil and scallions over medium heat in small saucepan 2 minutes. Stir in lime juice, grated ginger, salt and pepper. Cook 1 more minute.
Place fish in shallow dish and pour warm marinade over top. Cover and place in refrigerator at least 2 hours, turning once after an hour. Let fish stand at room temperature 30 minutes before grilling.
If using outdoor grill, oil the grid and place the fish above ashen coals. Grill fish about 10 minutes per thickness, turning once. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
If using electric grilling machine, place fish on hot grill, drizzle bit of marinade on top and cook 4 to 5 minutes for each inch of thickness. When done, remove and season with salt and pepper to taste. Makes 4 servings.
George Foreman's Knock-Out-the-Fat Barbecue and Grilling Cookbook (Villard; $13.95)
If Santa brought a Microplane Zester . . .
Lemon-Poppy Seed Shortbread
1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter, room temperature
1/2 cup sugar
Grated zest of 2 lemons
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons poppy seeds
Position racks in center and top third of oven and preheat to 300 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper, or lightly butter them.
In bowl of heavy-duty stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, beat butter, sugar, lemon zest and salt until mixture is very light in color and texture, about 5 minutes. Reduce speed to low. Add flour and poppy seeds and mix until incorporated.
Turn out dough onto lightly floured work surface and divide into 4 pieces. Gently form each piece of dough into a flat 1/2 inch-thick round. Arrange rounds on baking sheets and slightly flatten each one.
Bake, switching positions of the sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through baking until the rounds are firm in the middle, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and cut each round into 10 wedges. Separate the wedges and spread them out on the baking sheets. Return to the oven and bake until the tips of the cookies are firm, about 10 minutes.
Transfer to wire cooking racks and cool completely. (Store at room temperature in airtight containers up to 1 week.)
The Baker's Dozen Cookbook (Morrow; $40)
If Santa brought an egg poacher . . .
Poached Eggs Blackstone
4 slices bacon, fried until crisp and crumbled (reserve bacon fat)
4 1/2-inch thick slices tomato
Seasoned flour
4 poached eggs
Hollandaise sauce (see recipe below)
Coat tomato slices lightly in seasoned flour and fry, over medium heat, in bacon fat until browned on both sides. Drain tomatoes on paper towels.
Place 1 poached egg on top of each tomato slice. Top with crumbled bacon and Hollandaise.
Blender Hollandaise
3 large egg yolks
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Ground white pepper or red pepper sauce, to taste
Salt, to taste
1/2 cup very warm clarified butter (see note)
Place egg yolks, lemon juice, white pepper and salt in blender or food processor. Process on high speed 1 minute. With machine running, add clarified butter in slow, steady stream. By the time all butter is added (about 1 minute) sauce should thicken. If not, process on high about 20 seconds longer. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve immediately or keep warm briefly by submerging blender container in warm water. Makes 1 cup.
Note: To make clarified butter, cut unsalted butter into small pieces and melt over low heat. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes, without stirring and without allowing butter to sizzle. Strain melted butter. Use only the clear yellow liquid.
Adapted from Joy of Cooking (Scribner; $30)
If Santa brought a crepe maker . . .
Apple and Walnut Crepes: Brown thinly sliced apples in butter and sprinkle with sugar. Add roughly chopped walnuts to warm. Spoon apple-walnut mixture over crepes and fold crepes into quarters. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and top each crepe with walnut half.
Optional: Flame crepes with calvados or other fruit brandy
Adapted from Larousse Gastronomique (Crown; $60)
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