• History: Ancient Romans grew parsnips and served them simmered in white wine and olive oil and seasoned with various herbs and spices, including cilantro, pepper, cumin and chives. The root vegetable probably reached its height in medieval Europe, well before potatoes arrived from the New World, when it was used as a sweetener and starch. Parsnips were especially popular in America during the 19th and early 20th centuries.

        • FYI: Writer Elizabeth Schneider believes parsnip's first syllable may have come from the Old French, pasnaie. “Nip” is derived from “neep,” or turnip.

        • Buy: Although available year-round, parsnips are at their best during the fall and winter. (Some believe the most flavorful parsnips spend months in the cold.) Look for sturdy, firm parsnips free of pitting. A uniform, cream-beige color is preferable, but some browning of skin is normal. Buy fairly large roots to minimize peeling. Tops should have no sprouting seed stalk, which may indicate a woody texture.

        • Store: Do not wash parsnips before storing. Wrap in paper towel, then plastic and refrigerate in vegetable crisper. If stored cold and wrapped, they'll keep for months.

        • Cook: Trim and peel like a carrot. If center of parsnip seems tough and pithy, trim and discard. Cut into uniform pieces for cooking. Steam, simmer, stew and saute in butter. Toss parsnips with olive oil and roast at 400 degrees with a sprinkle of water for 30 minutes to an hour to accent vegetable's sweetness. Microwaving may make parsnips flabby, stringy and spongy.

        • Good for you: Parsnips are a good source of vitamin C, thiamin, phosphorus, fiber and potassium.

        • Professional treatment: Parsnips make a silky-smooth puree with a slightly earthy, sweet flavor. Several downtown chefs use parsnip puree in interesting ways.

        At Aioli, chef/owner Julie Francis serves seared, peppercorn-encrusted ahi tuna with parsnip puree, crispy parsnips, wild mushrooms and a pinot noir sauce.

        Parsnips are on the Maisonette menu in a silky, slightly sweet puree, served in tiny dollops with foie gras and grapes.

        Parsnip puree was part of a fall salad at the Phoenix, along with mushrooms, diced beets, watercress and greens.

Mashed Roots with Thyme

        1 pound large parsnips, washed, peeled; reserve one for garnish and cut the remaining into 2-inch dice
       Canola oil for frying strips of parsnips
       3 large celery roots*, washed, peeled and cut into 2-inch dice
       2 medium turnips, washed, peeled and cut into 2-inch dice
       1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled
       1 cup shallots, peeled
       2 cups apple juice
       4 tablespoons butter
       2 tablespoons fresh thyme
       1 cup no-fat sour cream
       Salt and pepper, to taste
        1/2 cup snipped fresh chives, divided

        Take the one parsnip for garnish and peel it into long strips. In a medium skillet add 2 inches of canola oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add strips of parsnips to the oil, cooking until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined baking sheet.

        In a large pot, combine celery roots, diced parsnips and turnips and cover with cold water. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, cooking until tender, about 30 minutes. Drain into a colander when done.

        In a small saucepan, combine garlic, shallots and juice and bring to a simmer over high heat. Cook until tender, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove garlic and shallots to a small bowl and reserve. Return juice to the heat and reduce until thickened to coat back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Pour over the garlic and shallots. Reserve.

        In a small saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Remove from the heat, add the thyme; steep until it's time to add the mixture to the roots, about 10 minutes.

        When the root vegetables are done, pass them and the garlic-shallot mixture through a ricer or food mill into a mixing bowl and whip. Add the thyme and butter mixture and the sour cream. Season generously with salt and black pepper. Add almost all of the chives, mixing to combine. Transfer to an oven-proof serving dish, cover and keep warm until ready to serve. To serve, remove the lid. Sprinkle the fried parsnip and remaining chives on top. Makes 8 servings.

        * Celery root or celeriac is another root vegetable at its peak during the cold months. Buy the knobby celery root at specialty stores, such as Pipkin's Fruit & Vegetable Market in Montgomery.

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