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Sunday, February 03, 2002

Food stuff


Chains' appetizers touch down in arteries

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        On this day dedicated to indulgent snacking, we examine chain restaurant appetizers, which are really nothing more than large, more expensive and greasier snacks. Here are 10 significant appetizer truisms and trends we have observed.

        Fry everything: There isn't a more popular preparation method for chain appetizers — fried chicken strips, fried chicken wings, fried onion “petals,” fried, cheese-stuffed pepper “poppers.” Grilled appetizers are gaining popularity, but honestly, when did you last eat a boiled, poached or baked appetizer?

        More cheese, please: We can't get enough of gooey melted cheese on nachos, chips and in dipping sauce. And don't forget fried cheese. It really doesn't matter what kind of cheese, because by the time the chain gang gets hold of it, it all tastes the same.

        Clever cross-cultural creations: Here's a trend that capitalizes on the fusion craze. Chi-Chi's may have been first with its Mexican Spring Rolls. T.G.I. Friday's serves Tuscan Spinach Dip with tortilla chips, and Chili's sells Southwestern Egg Rolls — tortillas wrapped around chicken, black beans and other fillings. Although we're not sure what qualifies that as an egg roll.

        Ranch dressing on the side: Nothing goes better with fried appetizers than familiar creamy ranch. Bloomin' Onion with Thousand Island? Don't think so.

        Mama's Marinara: This tinny, oregano-heavy tomato sauce is often paired with other appetizer ingredients to make us feel better about indulging. Dipping fried cheese in ranch dressing is over the top (although it sounds pretty good), but munching fried cheese bathed in marinara somehow seems sensible.

        “Zesty!”: Perhaps the most common adjective on the appetizer menu, often used to describe marinara sauce, which is actually far from zesty. “Creamy” is a distant second among appetizer descriptions.

        Bacon makes it better: Only the most ardent vegetarian would disagree that bacon enhances virtually every food on the planet. Maybe even tofu. We must congratulate Outback Steak House for creating probably the ideal appetizer, utilizing all four major chain flavors. Outback's Aussie Cheese Fries are fried potatoes, smothered with melted cheese, topped with bacon and served with ranch dressing. Bravo!

        Dip it, good: Nostalgia could be the key ingredient in these homey appetizers meant to be shared. Chi-Chi's puts a spin on the retro spinach and artichoke dip by adding roasted red pepper habanero sauce, and for its San Remo Seafood Dip, Olive Garden adds zesty marinara.

        Greatest hits: If you can't possibly decide which chain appetizer to order, most restaurants will tempt you with a sampler platter. At Bennigan's, the “Best Sampler” is potato skins, Buffalo wings and fried cheese. Maybe after you die from the coronary, you will feel like you've gone to heaven.

        Lettuce rolls: For chain appetizer purists, these are a disturbing trend. Chili's stuffs grilled chicken, water chestnuts and other low-fat things into lettuce leaves. When sales sag, we're guessing it's only a matter of time before they create the BLT Lettuce Wrap, covered with creamy, melted Monterey Jack and with zesty! ranch dressing on the side.

       



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