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Sunday, February 10, 2002

Food stuff


Get qualified to make Olympic-quality sauce

map
        If you can pull yourself away from the luge, curling and other fascinating televised Winter Olympics events, which are carefully staggered among clever Coke and Mickey D commercials, I have another event for you to try at home this week.

        It doesn't require years of training or millions of dollars of corporate backing. This not-too-tricky winter kitchen event is called the sear-deglaze-sauce.

        You won't need ice or snow, skates or skis — only a heavy fry pan, wooden spoon, a little olive oil, butter, salt, pepper, decent dry, red wine, a working kitchen stove and a steak. (Other, sear-deglaze-sauce events feature boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pork chops, even sliced portabella mushrooms and other vegetables.)

        Begin with a warm-up. Heat the pan over medium-high heat. Then add olive oil and about half as much butter. (You can skip the butter for health's sake, but believe me, you'll get higher scores from the judges if you use butter.) Season the beef well on both sides with salt and pepper.

        Eye the melting butter carefully. Once it stops foaming, but before it begins turning brown, carefully place the steak in the pan. Take a half step back, and watch carefully as the beef sizzles. You are now searing.

        Resist the temptation to move the steak in the pan. It will stick briefly, but as it sears, an exterior crust forms, which will release the meat from the pan's surface. Veteran searers will tell you this.

        The next step requires close observation and maybe a little intuition. Continue to cook the steak, adjusting the heat if necessary, to keep the meat at the searing stage, but not burning. Remember, although this shouldn't take long, this is not a speed event.

        While the beef cooks, take the opportunity to flex your stirring hand. Soon, you'll need it.

        After about four to six minutes, carefully turn over the meat. Take another half step back. Wait a few minutes, probably less time than it cooked on the first side, before removing the steak to a plate to keep it warm.

        Now, speed and agility become important. After removing the meat from the pan, pour off excess fat, return the pan to the burner, raise the heat slightly and add a splash of wine. Quickly rub the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dislodge any brown bits of caramelized flavor. You are now deglazing.

        Reduce the wine by nearly half, then pour in a cup or so of chicken broth. When the liquid comes to a boil, turn the heat down to a simmer and continue cooking until the stock has reduced by nearly half. Stir in a dab of butter. (Again, this is optional, but the judges adore butter.)

        Remove the pan from the heat — but you're not done yet. By now, the resting steak will have thrown off a few juices in the plate. Stir the juices into your sauce and taste for salt and pepper. Place the steak on a serving plate (you may earn style points for slicing the beef on the diagonal) and dribble a little sauce over the top.

        You have now completed the classic sear-deglaze-sauce. You won't win any lucrative breakfast cereal or lip balm endorsements, but if you execute this event properly, you'll earn at least a 9.8 score from the judges — or anyone else nearby with a knife and fork.

Chicken, pork, portabellas

        • To sear-deglaze-sauce with boneless, skinless chicken breast: After seasoning with salt and pepper, dredge chicken lightly in flour and sear as directed. Deglaze pan with white wine.

        • To sear-deglaze-sauce pork chops, you may need to pan-roast thick chops in 350-degree oven (after first turn) for 10 minutes or so. Deglaze pan with red or white wine.

        • To sear-deglaze-sauce portabella mushrooms or other vegetables, cook for less time over medium heat. Deglaze with white or red wine.

       



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