History: Malaysia is the motherland of the coconut palm, which now grows in parts of South America, India, Hawaii and Caroline and Marshall islands. One tree yields thousands of versatile coconuts over its 70-year life span. There is a South Seas saying that, “He who plants a coconut tree plants food and drink, vessels and clothing, a source of heat, habitation for himself and a heritage for his children.”

        FYI: The liquid that Tom Hanks squeezed from coconuts in the movie Cast Away was not coconut milk but pale, thin coconut juice. Coconut milk can be made only by simmering equal parts of grated coconut flesh with water until foamy, and then straining. Make coconut cream by simmering 4 parts grated coconut to 1 part water. When buying the canned products, do not confuse sweetened cream of coconut — often used for desserts and mixed drinks — with unsweetened coconut milk or cream.

        Buy: Fresh coconuts are available year-round. “Young” coconuts have brown, hairy husks, with soft and chewy meat. “White” coconuts are young coconuts with the husk removed, revealing the hard inner white shell. Buy coconuts that feel heavy and sound full of liquid when shaken.

        Store: Whole, unopened coconuts can be stored at room temperature for up to six months, depending on ripeness. Grated fresh coconut can be refrigerated up to four days or frozen up to six months.

        Prepare: To open a coconut, drop it on a hard surface or whack it with a hammer to crack open husk (if it has a husk). To open the hard brown shell, pierce two or three “eyes” at one end with a screwdriver and hammer. Drain and refrigerate coconut juice. Tap all over with hammer to split shell lengthwise. If this doesn't work, bake drained coconut at 375 degrees 20 to 25 minutes. When cool enough to handle, crack with hammer. Scrape or peel away flesh from shell. One medium coconut yields 3 to 4 cups grated.

        Professional treatment: The ultimate coconut experience is eating a Congolais from Le Cezanne Bakery in Wyoming or Hyde Park ($1.50). It's a big, flat coconut macaroon cookie — nothing but coconut and sugar and egg white, baked so that it's crispy outside and chewy inside, and sweet all over. Just think what it would taste like with a scoop of ice cream and some hot fudge on top.

        Speaking of ice cream: Too bad, you just missed Graeter's coconut chip ice cream. It was the flavor of the month in January. There's probably some left in most stores. Marvelous with bittersweet sauce.

        The best cuisine for coconut in main dishes is Thai. A Thai chicken coconut soup is a sublime balance of flavors: sweet, salty, tangy with lime and rich with coconut. It's very good at Amarin in Madeira.

       — Sources: Food Lover's Companion (Barron's; $14.95); Joy of Cooking (Scribner; $30); and The Great Exotic Fruit Book (Ten Speed; $15.95).

— Enquirer dining writer Polly Campbell contributed to this report.
       

Arroz Con Coco Oriente
       

        2 tablespoons dark roasted sesame oil
       1 habanero chile, seeded and minced
        1/2 small red onion, diced
       1 1/2 tablespoons Thai red curry paste
       2 cups short grain rice
       2 cups coconut milk
       2 cups chicken stock
       Salt and black pepper, to taste

        Heat sesame oil in large, heavy saucepan. Saute diced chile and onion over medium-high heat about 3 minutes, or until glazed.

        Add curry paste and stir well. Add rice and stir again. Add coconut milk, stock, salt and pepper, stir well, and bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until rice is cooked, about 25 minutes. Turn off heat and let rice stand 5 minutes, covered, before serving.

— The Great Exotic Fruit Book

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