A while back, I wrote about people coming from unusual careers to start a winery. Ben Pon (Bernardus) drove a race car for Porsche, Bob Lamborn (Lamborn Family Vineyards) had worked as a private investigator and Andrew Quady (Quady Winery) was in pyrotechnics.

        I omitted someone because of space limitations, but now is a fitting time to mention Cecil De Loach (De Loach Vineyards), who came into wine from an unsung career as a public servant. Before he owned a winery, Mr. De Loach was a firefighter.

        Mr. De Loach joined the San Francisco Fire Department in 1965. While serving with the department, he studied anthropology at San Francisco State University. After his graduation, the De Loach family began looking for agricultural land in Sonoma County.

        In 1969, the family purchased 24 acres with zinfandel vines in Sonoma's Russian River Valley. The former owner, Louis Barbieri, taught the De Loach family how to grow grapes. Mr. De Loach moved a small trailer to the land to use when he tended the vines.

        Mr. De Loach completed several extension courses in enology from UC Davis, and in 1975 he made his first wine, a zinfandel. Production quickly jumped to 9,000 cases, and, in his 16th year as a firefighter, Cecil De Loach left the SFFD to focus on the winery.

        Today, De Loach Vineyards includes almost 900 acres in Sonoma County, mostly in the Russian River Valley appellation. The land encompasses a rich variety of microclimates, which allows the winery to grow a broad range of grape varieties.

        Son Michael De Loach is now president and he oversees the production of 175,000 cases in four tiers: California, Russian River Valley, single-vineyard and OFS (“Our Finest Selection,” although it is rumored that OFS originally was a less-than-proper abbreviation marked on the best barrels).

        I recently tasted the spectrum of De Loach wines, including a few not yet released. Most of the prices given below are approximate.

        • 2000 Pinot Noir “OFS, Russian River Valley” ($50): The best of the wines I tasted, this pinot is refreshingly but not overly endowed with acidity. The excellent balance pairs with strong fruit, extended length and intriguing complexity. Not to be missed.

        • 2000 Pinot Noir “Balletto Ranch, Russian River Valley” ($30) and 2000 “Russian River Valley” ($20): As the De Loach pinots step down in price, their complexity and length also diminish. Also, all three pinots were somewhat cloudy when I sampled them. Nevertheless, these are fine wines. Strongly recommended.

        • 2000 Zinfandel “OFS, Russian River Valley” ($50): I loved the deep-purple color and intense, complex aromas. The flavors were full bodied and fruit filled, but also highly refined. Strongly recommended.

        • 2000 Zinfandel “Barbieri Ranch, Russian River Valley” ($28): Oh-so-close in overall quality to the OFS, and many people may prefer this somewhat bolder, less expensive zin from the family's original vineyard. Strongly recommended.

        • 2000 Zinfandel “Russian River Valley” ($20): A good wine that needs time to settle and integrate. Recommended.

        • 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon “Los Amigos Ranch, Russian River Valley” ($28): A fine cab from a not-so-fine vintage speaks well of the vineyard and the wine-making. I loved the beautiful complexity of the aromas. Recommended.

        • 1999 Chardonnay “OFS, Russian River Valley” ($32): This full-bodied, moderately-oaked chard has complex aromas, extended finish, and high level of refinement. Recommended.

        Editor's note: With this column, John Vankat ends his six-year tenure as Enquirer Sips columnist. He is not giving up wine, but leaving Oxford for the mountains of Arizona. We wish him well.

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