History: Cremini mushrooms are also marketed as crimini, baby bellas, golden Italian, Roman or classic brown mushrooms. These small brown mushrooms are actually another strain of the more common white (champignon) mushrooms. In Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini (Morrow; $60), Elizabeth Schneider writes cremini are probably Italian in origin and were available in the United States at least by the 1920s — but probably by another name.

        FYI: To make things more confusing, cremini and portabella mushrooms are the same strain. Cremini are only younger and smaller.

        Buy: Look for cremini that are plump, solid, firm and dry, but not shriveled or slippery. An earthy, vegetable smell is good; a sourish or animal smell is not.

        Store: Unlike most mushrooms, cremini can last a week or more in breathable plastic retail packs in the refrigerator.

        Prepare: Rinse mushrooms quickly in colander, then blot on towels. Trim and discard any wilted or browning stem.

        Professional treatment: Like all mushrooms, creminis go well with cream. Palomino Euro Bistro, downtown, turns portabella and cremini mushrooms into a wonderfully rich soup with butter, cream and a dash of cayenne pepper.

        Penne with Aromatic Cremini-Tomato Ragout

        1 1/2 pounds cremini mushrooms, rinsed
       3 tablespoons olive oil
       1 large onion, chopped
       1 or 2 garlic cloves, chopped finely
       1 teaspoon grated orange zest
       1 teaspoon kosher salt
       1 14 to 16-ounce can tomatoes, chopped
       1 8-ounce can tomato puree or sauce
        1/4 teaspoon chili flakes
        1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped mint leaves
       1 pound penne rigate

        Thinly slice half of cremini, halve or quarter remaining mushrooms. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil in large heavy saucepan. Add chopped onion, garlic, orange zest and salt; toss over moderate heat until onions are lightly colored, about 5 minutes. Raise heat, add mushrooms and saute until juices are released, then nearly evaporate — about 10 minutes.

        Add chopped tomatoes, puree and chili flakes. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring often, until flavors blend, about 15 minutes. Stir in 2 to 4 tablespoons mint, to taste.

        Boil pasta until al dente and toss with remaining olive oil and large spoonful of sauce. Top with remaining sauce and sprinkle with chopped mint to taste. Makes 4 main dish servings.

        — Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini (Morrow; $60)

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