Sunday, April 07, 2002
Serve it this week: Green onions
By Chuck Martin, cmartin@enquirer.com
The Cincinnati Enquirer
History: Prehistoric man cultivated onions, and this member of the lily family was also a favorite of ancient Mesopotamians, Egyptians and Greeks. Explorers discovered many varieties of wild onions growing in North America. A city on the shore of Lake Michigan earned its name for the natural abundance of onions: Chicago is an Indian word for onion odor.
FYI: Green onions are also called spring onions, scallions, bunching onions and salad onions. In Great Britain, they are called shallots, even though true shallots more closely resemble garlic in appearance and flavor. Whatever their name, the slim, bulbless onions with tender green tops are planted in close quarters and harvested young.
Buy: Green onions are available year-round, but are at their peak during spring and summer. Buy spring onions with crisp, bright green tops and firm white base.
Store: Keep green onions in a plastic bag in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to five days.
Prepare: Trim roots and slip off layer or two of onion skin. Cut off any limp greens. The white and tender green parts are edible. Serve green onions raw with crudites and dip, grill or braise whole like leeks. Chop green onions to add to salads and stir-fries.
Good for you: Onions provide a moderate amount of vitamin C and potassium and contain two compounds allicin and sulforaphane that are thought to lower the risk of certain cancers.
Professional treatment: At Aioli, downtown, chef-owner Julie Francis has served green onions braised in miso-soy sauce with tangle of pad Thai noodles, vegetables and seared tuna. Scallions play a major role in the leek and watercress sauce served with Sturkey's signature grilled salmon dish in Wyoming. Paul Sturkey also brushes whole green onions with butter, dusts them with Cajun-style spices and grills them as a garnish for steaks. This spring, David Cook of Daveed's in Mount Adams will garnish fresh morel soup with phyllo cigars, made of braised whole green onions and Reblochon cheese rolled in phyllo pastry.
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Serve it this week: Green onions
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