History: Ancient Romans believed dill was a symbol of good luck and pleasure. Eastern European cooks, especially the Poles, Russians and Hungarians, use this member of the parsley family generously and fresh in many dishes, while Americans are most accustomed to using dried dill and dill seed as a flavoring for pickles. French and Italians have never been especially fond of dill.

        FYI: In the Middle Ages, witches used dill in magic spells to stave off storms. America's early colonists called dill “meetin' seed” because it was chewed for refreshment during long church meetings.

        Buy: Look for bright green dill with no signs of wilting. Although the herb is available fresh in many groceries, it can be easily grown from seed or plant in pots or in kitchen gardens.

        Store: If you grow your own dill, cut it just before using, if possible. Otherwise, place stems in glass or vase of water to keep fresh. Or, wrap loosely in plastic and refrigerate for day or two.

        Prepare: Rinse dill, shake dry and chop just before using. Fresh dill loses its flavor during heating, so add it near the end of cooking. On the other hand, heat and cooking brings out the flavor of dried dill seed.

        Serve: As a fresh herb, use dill to flavor salads, vegetables, pastas, grains, seafood, eggs, slaws, sour cream and cheeses. Use in cooked soups, sauces, vegetables, fish, potatoes and bread. Dill combines well with other fresh herbs and garlic.

        Professional treatment: Dill is a natural in salads. One of the several good salad dressings at Carol's on Main, downtown,is a fresh dill and lemon vinaigrette.

        — Knight Ridder News Service contributed to this story.

Dilly Beans

        3 pounds young green beans
       6 cloves garlic
       6 large sprigs fresh dill or 6 teaspoons dill seeds
       6 whole pods dried red pepper
       48 black peppercorns
       3 3/4 cups white vinegar
       3 3/4 cups water
       3 tablespoons sea salt, kosher salt or pickling salt

        Sterilize and air-dry 6 pint canning jars and new lids. Wash green beans in several changes of cold water. Trim ends but leave beans whole. Pack beans vertically in jars. Add 1 clove garlic, 1 sprig dill (or 1 teaspoon seeds), 1 pepper pod and 8 peppercorns to each jar.

        Combine vinegar, water and salt in stainless pan and bring to boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve salt. Divide pickling brine between jars, leaving 1/2 inch of headroom at top of each.

        Seal with lids and rings, and process jars, completely covered, in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. Remove jars with tongs and allow to cool completely. Store 6 to 8 weeks before serving. Store jars that do not seal in refrigerator and use within 2 months. Serve dilly beans cold on relish trays, or mix into salads. Makes 6 pints.

       — Beans, Greens and Sweet Georgia Peaches (Broadway; $17.50)

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