Sunday, May 05, 2002

Brunches cater to all kinds of mothers

By Polly Campbell
The Cincinnati Enquirer

        Where to go on Mother's Day, next Sunday.

        That depends on your mother, of course, and what she expects from Mother's Day. Which kind of mother do you have?

        She likes to brag to her friends about where you take her:

        Go all out and take her to the Palace, the restaurant in the Cincinnatian Hotel, downtown. Chef Guy Hulin, who comes to the Palace having worked in luxury hotels all over the world, will be serving a lavish buffet that will break the brunch buffet mold with a wide variety of unusual dishes.

        Examples: stuffed crepes with cherries; lobster and hazelnut salad; assortment of sushi and sashimi; poached salmon Bellevue; assortment of cold smoked fish; prime rib with horseradish; roasted rack of pork; braised sea bass with wild mushrooms; fresh fruit mirror; rhubarb strawberry crisp; peanut butter and chocolate cheesecake; and lemon tart with fresh fruit.

        Hours: 11 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Cost: $35.95 for ages 13 and up, $17.95 for ages 6-12, and free for children under 5. Reservations: 381-3000.

        She wouldn't dream of eating out without the grandchildren:

        Buffets are great when eating with three generations. The kids can pick and choose and put together a reasonable meal (even if it's rolls, strawberries and three desserts), while the more sophisticated generations can select a real meal.

        The buffet at deSha's in Symmes Township would fit the bill nicely. It will include hot and cold crab legs, oysters Rockefeller, carving stations with wood-fire rotisserie turkey, beef and pork tenderloin, ham, gourmet cheese selection, hot cobblers, triple chocolate cake and cheesecakes. Plus, there will be a table with food catering to kids.

        Hours: 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Cost: $18.95 for adults and $5.95 for children 3-11. Reservations: 247-9933.

        She likes to be entertained:

        Vito's Cafe in Fort Thomas will be open extra hours on Mother's Day — 1-7 p.m. You're waited on at Vito's by servers who also sing. They'll regale you with arias, show tunes and standards as you dine.

        The usual Italian menu will be available, plus a couple of specials for those whose tastes run in a different direction.

        Examples: honey-baked ham with macaroni and cheese and country collard greens ($19); and rack of lamb with parsley-roasted new potatoes and asparagus with hollandaise sauce ($29).

        Reservations: (859) 442-9444.


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