History: Historians believe Columbus discovered papayas when he landed in the West Indies. He first called them “fruit of the angels.” Papaya seeds were soon spread around the world by explorers of the Americas. In some regions, papayas are called pawpaws, but the two trees are unrelated. (Pawpaws are native to Eastern North America and bear fruit that resembles bananas in appearance and flavor.) Most papayas in the U.S. market are grown in Hawaii and Florida.

        FYI: Papayas are horticultural wonders, growing from seed to a 20-foot, fruit-bearing tree in less than 18 months. Papaya fruit contains papain, a digestive enzyme used in meat tenderizers.

        Buy: Papayas are available year-round, but the prime season is early summer. Look for richly colored, golden-yellow fruit that give slightly to palm pressure. Slightly green papayas will ripen quickly at room temperature in a paper bag.

        Store: Refrigerate ripe fruit and use as soon as possible.

        Prepare: Green papaya can be cooked as a vegetable, but ripe fruit is best eaten raw. The peppery black seeds are edible, but are usually discarded. Peel fruit, cut in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds. Serve with spritz of fresh lime juice, or in salads, desserts, smoothies and salsas.

        Good for you: Papayas are a good source of potassium and vitamins A and C.

Recipe

        Curried Crab and Papaya Salad

2 ripe, medium papayas, halved, seeded and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
       1 pound lump crab meat, picked over
       2 tablespoons minced parsley
       1 tablespoon minced fresh dill
       2 tablespoons well-drained small capers
       6 cup-shaped radicchio or Bibb lettuce leaves
       CURRY DRESSING
       1 small yellow onion, minced
       4 teaspoons corn or peanut oil
       2 teaspoons curry powder
       Pinch dried thyme
        1/2 cup mayonnaise
        1/3 cup sour cream
       1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
        1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
       í teaspoon pepper, or to taste

        Pat papaya cubes on several layers of paper toweling to dry. Place in mixing bowl along with crab, herbs and capers. Set, untossed, in refrigerator.

        To make dressing, brown onion in oil for 5 minutes over medium heat. Blend in curry powder and thyme, then reduce heat to low and heat 5 minutes longer.

        Pour mixture into blender or processor, add remaining dressing ingredients and run about 1 minute to blend. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust as needed.

        Pour dressing over papaya mixture, toss lightly, cover and chill several hours before serving. Toss again and serve in radicchio or lettuce cups. Makes 6 salad servings.

       — Adapted from The Nutrition Bible (Quill; $17)

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