An advertisement extolling a wide selection of fresh seafood drew me to King Wok in Clifton Heights. I took home a carryout menu with the idea of checking out some of the seafood specials. But there was little on the menu that seemed out of the ordinary.

        When I phoned in my order I learned fried oysters were available, so I ordered them along with shrimp and scallops with garlic sauce ($10.95) and Hawaii Five O, comprised of shrimp, scallops, squid, chicken and beef with mixed vegetables ($12.95).

        The deep-fried oysters ($13.95) came with a fiery red chili dipping sauce that, unfortunately, I spilled on my way home. We didn't miss it as we dug into the plump, juicy pile of oysters. The garlic shrimp and scallop dish was pretty good, with lots of tender seafood and crisp red peppers and snow peas.

        Hawaii Five O was also generously portioned. The thinly sliced meats were fresh tasting and tender and did not overwhelm the more delicate seafood and vegetables. What we had was pretty good — not that unusual.

        While picking up my order, I noticed a daily special for crab but was told it was sold out. When the hostess realized my interest, she pulled out a special seafood menu. If only I had had it earlier!

        Jellied eel, whelks, periwinkles, abalone and even sea cucumber are some of the more exciting offerings from King Wok. Some items, such as the hot pot dishes, don't travel well, but most can be carried out for an unusual feast. Not all items are available every day, so inquire about availability and market price.

        In addition to its seafood, meat and vegetable entrees, King Wok features appetizers, including spring rolls and dumplings; soups and noodle and rice dishes.

        King Wok Chinese Restaurant, 203 W. McMillan St., Clifton Heights, 723-1999 CV

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