The paradox of cooking in the summertime.

        Fields and markets are ripening with corn, tomatoes, berries and other abundant produce of the season. Our work schedules are generally more relaxed, and kids are home from school. There are more good reasons to cook this time of year, it seems.

From center, clockwise: Greek Steak Salad, Grilled Shrimp with Cilantro Mayonnaise, Penne Alla Caprese, Bourbon-Peach Fool and Sweet-and-Sour Zucchini. (Glenn Hartong photo) | ZOOM |

        Except most of us don't.

        Vacations and other family activities can make life at home more hectic, allowing less time for meal-making. It's often too hot to cook — even to eat. And besides, if you're off from work or school, who wants to toil in the kitchen?

        We have a solution. Prepare cool, light dishes that can be cooked ahead and assembled in the last minute — or even dishes that require no heat and can be served cold or at room temperature. But the best summer menus should feature fresh ingredients that celebrate the best of the season. And most importantly, they should taste good.

        Here's a start. These are our Five Dishes for the Summer of 2002.
       

Recipes


       

        Grill flank steak the day before and serve this entree salad to family or friends.

Greek Steak Salad
       

        1 flank steak, about 1 pound
       2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
       1 tablespoon lemon juice
       1 large clove garlic, minced
        1/4 teaspoon oregano
       Black pepper, to taste
       1 tablespoon olive oil
       VINAIGRETTE
       1 ounce lemon juice
        1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
       1 clove garlic, minced
        1/2 teaspoon oregano
       Salt and pepper, to taste
       3 ounces extra-virgin olive oil
       1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
       1 to 2 heads romaine, torn, washed and dried
       2 tomatoes, cored and cut into wedges
       1 red onion, sliced thinly into rings
       1 cucumber, peeled and sliced thinly
       4 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces, including green parts
       1 cup crumbled feta cheese

        Score surface of flank steak with knife on the diagonal on both sides. Place steak in sealable plastic bag. Whisk together Worcestershire, lemon juice, minced garlic, oregano, pepper and olive oil. Pour marinade into bag with steak. Marinate steak at least 4 hours or overnight in refrigerator, turning occasionally.

        To make vinaigrette, whisk lemon juice, Worcestershire, minced garlic, oregano, salt and pepper together. While whisking, gradually add olive oil. Add minced parsley and stir. Cover vinaigrette and refrigerate. (Allow to come to room temperature before serving.)

        Season steak with salt and grill or broil (discard marinade) to rare or medium rare; set steak aside on plate to rest for 10 minutes.

        Meanwhile, toss romaine, tomato wedges, sliced onion, cucumber and scallions in large bowl with vinaigrette (reserve about a tablespoon). Divide salad among four plates. Slice steak thinly on diagonal and place on top of each salad. Sprinkle crumbled feta on top of salads and drizzle with reserved vinaigrette. Makes 4 servings.

        You don't have to stand over a hot, bubbling pot of tomato sauce for this pasta because the sauce isn't cooked. Use your ripest tomatoes and best olive oil.

Penne Alla Caprese (Penne with Tomatoes, Mozzarella and Basil)
       

        4 large, ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice, or 1 28-ounce can roma tomatoes, drained (juice reserved), cut into 1/2-inch dice
       2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
       2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
       Salt and black pepper, to taste
       Fruity olive oil
       1 pound penne rigate or other pasta
        3/4 pound grated mozzarella

        In large bowl mix chopped tomatoes, basil, garlic, salt and pepper. (If using canned tomatoes, you may need to add a little reserved juice to make mixture saucy.) Add just enough olive oil to cover tomatoes. Cover bowl and let sauce marinate at room temperature at least 2 hours.

        Before serving, cook penne until al dente in salted water. Drain pasta, place in serving bowl and add tomato mixture (bring to room temperature if refrigerated). Add grated mozzarella and toss so that cheese begins to melt. Makes 4 servings.

        — Cucina Fresca (Harper & Row; $14)

        Here's a new way to use your bounty of zucchini this season. Serve as a cold or room temperature side dish, or toss with pasta.

Sweet and Sour Zucchini
       

        3 medium zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch slices
       2 teaspoons salt (optional)
       3 tablespoons pure olive oil
       1 clove garlic, minced
       3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar or white vinegar*
       1 teaspoon sugar
       3 tablespoons chopped basil
       Black pepper, to taste

        If you have time, combine sliced zucchini with 2 teaspoons salt in colander. Toss to mix and set aside to drain in sink for 30 minutes. Transfer zucchini to dish towel and wring dry.

        Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add zucchini and saute, while stirring, until lightly colored and softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove zucchini to serving bowl with slotted spoon.

        To same pan, add minced garlic and saute a few seconds before adding vinegar and sugar. Saute about 1 minute and add chopped basil. Stir and pour sauce over zucchini. Add pepper, toss and taste for seasoning. Makes 4 servings.

        * — If using vinegar other than balsamic, you will need to increase sugar to 1 to 2 tablespoons.

       — Adapted from The Classic Zucchini Cookbook (Storey; $14.95)

        The perfect match for this Spanish tapa is sangria.

Grilled Shrimp with Cilantro Mayonnaise
       

        3/4 pound extra-large shrimp in their shells
       Kosher or sea salt
       Olive oil
       Lemon Juice
       CILANTRO MAYONNAISE
       1 cup mayonnaise
        1/2 cup minced cilantro
       2 teaspoons minced capers
       4 cloves garlic, finely chopped or mashed
       2 tablespoons lemon juice
       3 anchovy fillets, minced

        Wash and drain shrimp. Set shrimp on a plate and sprinkle with salt and drizzle with oil. Let shrimp sit 10 minutes at room temperature. Coat skillet lightly with oil and heat to smoking point. Add shrimp and cook briefly, turning once, until just cooked through. Remove shrimp and sprinkle with lemon juice before serving. Makes 4 to 6 appetizer servings.

        To make Cilantro Mayonnaise, combine all ingredients in bowl and mix well. Cover and refrigerate until serving. Makes 1 1/2 cups.
       — Paella! (Holt; $27.50)

        Substitute or add fresh berries to this classic dessert, and omit the bourbon if you wish.
       

Bourbon-Peach Fool
       

        4 medium peaches, peeled and diced
       Sugar, to taste
       2 tablespoons bourbon, or to taste
       2 cups heavy whipping cream
       Mint leaves, for garnish

        Sweeten peaches to taste. Add bourbon and mash peaches with back of spoon to create rough paste. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours but no longer than 6 hours.

        Just before serving, whip cream to soft peaks. Reserve about 2 tablespoons of peach puree and fold rest into whipped cream.

        Scrape fool mixture into chilled parfait glasses or dessert dishes. Top with a little peach puree and garnish with mint sprig. Makes about 4 servings.

Too hot to cook? Chill out
Disney plans all-out effort for ABC's new season
Head parrot Buffett has new songs, new energy
Food lovers dish out advice
King Wok's seafood secret is out
Low-fat dressing lightens chicken pizza
Smart mouth
Lincoln Center symphony hall in the works
Lombardo tribute tonight
Sony, Jackson in a thriller
Body & mind
Get to it