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Sunday, June 23, 2002

Bourbon is 'in,' some say, and Ky. hopes to capitalize


Trail boasts seven historical distilleries for tours

By Steve Bailey
The Associated Press

        VERSAILLES, Ky. — Joe O'Brien came all the way from Chester County, Pa., to see the horses run at Churchill Downs.

        He awoke with his wife at their Louisville hotel on a sunny Tuesday morning, ready to see the famed twin spires and throw down a few bucks on a couple of long shots. Instead, they found themselves captivated by another Kentucky specialty — bourbon whiskey.

[photo] A tour group exits the pot still room at the Labrot and Graham Distillery in Versailles, Ky.
(Associated Press photo)
| ZOOM |
        “We didn't know that the track didn't have racing today,” Mr. O'Brien said with a shrug as he savored a piece of sweet bourbon candy and an ice-cold glass of peach tea after a tour of the Labrot and Graham distillery. “We came to Kentucky for the horses and discovered the Bourbon Trail.”

        That's exactly the scenario Kentucky tourism officials and distillers are betting on as they work to lure tourists seeking the history and tradition associated with bourbon. More than a half-dozen distilleries lie among the region's green hills and bubbling streams. Each offers visitors a glimpse into how bourbon is handcrafted and a rare look back in time.

        It's called the Kentucky Bourbon Trail, promoted as an intimate tour of seven of the country's oldest and most popular distilleries.

        Some of the names are well known: Maker's Mark, Jim Beam and Wild Turkey. Others may not be household names — Labrot and Graham, Heaven Hill, Buffalo Trace and Four Roses — but are no less important to the history of the state and the industry.

        “We've got a wonderful, uniquely Kentucky travel experience that we can offer to consumers that can't be found anywhere else in the nation,” said Bob Stewart, commissioner of the Kentucky Department of Travel.

        “When people think of Kentucky, they think of signature attractions like thoroughbred racing, Cumberland Falls or Mammoth Cave. Bourbon is a part of this state's history, and we want people to look at it and appreciate it as they would some of these other attractions.”

        Bourbon has been produced in Kentucky since the 1780s. To earn the name, it must be made in the United States, contain at least 51 percent corn in the mash, be distilled at 160 proof or less and aged a minimum of two years in new charred white oak barrels.

        More than 95 percent of the world's bourbon is produced in Kentucky, with most of that distilled and bottled within about an hour's drive from the state's two largest cities.

        “Fine bourbon is once again relevant in the global market, and this is where the magic is created,” said Maker's Mark President Bill Samuels Jr., a seventh-generation bourbon maker.

        “People that drink bourbon have a natural interest in the product. With most, once we give them a taste of the history of the product and how it is produced, they're hooked.”

        Established in 1805 as a gristmill and distillery, Maker's Mark is the nation's oldest working distillery on its original site. It also is one of the smallest, producing about 34,000 barrels of premium bourbon annually in batches of fewer than 19 barrels.

        Despite its size, Maker's Mark attracts more than 55,000 visitors a year to its facility on the banks of Hardin Creek near the tiny town of Loretto.

        Peggy Stevens, an ambassador and master taster for Labrot and Graham, said the distillery has been host to an increasing number of visitors each year since it was renovated and reopened in 1997.

        The facility, which produces the Woodford Reserve brand, may top 50,000 visitors this year. It has had visitors from all 50 states and 55 countries, Ms. Stevens said.

        On a recent afternoon its tiny parking lot was packed with cars with license plates from Georgia, Texas, Pennsylvania, Louisiana, North Carolina, Virginia, Arkansas and California as well as Kentucky, Indiana and Ohio.

        “I really believe this part of Kentucky is a small Napa Valley,” said Ms. Stevens, who created programs designed to teach visitors about bourbon and the history of the distillery when it reopened five years ago. “The history here is so rich and so deep that it really draws people in.”

        Distillers sold nearly 13.1 million cases of bourbon nationwide last year — more than $3 billion. With the popularity of premium bourbons at an all-time high, tourism officials believe the state can capitalize.

        “Bourbon is "in' again, and it would be ridiculous for us to overlook that and not take advantage of it,” Mr. Stewart said. “That spike in popularity is not only good for the bourbon industry, but it causes cash registers to ring and generates more state and local tax dollars.”

        The Distilled Spirits Council of the United States has joined the crusade, bringing in media writers to explore the Bourbon Trail. Nearly a dozen writers made the two-day trip in May and toured Maker's Mark, Labrot and Graham, Jim Beam in Clermont and Wild Turkey in Lawrenceburg.

        “Kentucky is the crown jewel of the distilling industry,” said Frank Coleman, senior vice president of public affairs for the organization. “We want these writers to remind readers around the world of the important roles that these distilleries and their products have played in the history and traditions that flavor their region.”

        Wild Turkey hopes to cash in on that burgeoning popularity as well, expanding its visitors center in the hopes of drawing more bourbon connoisseurs.

        “We jumped on the bandwagon a little later than some as far as tours go, but we get our share,” distillery manager Gregg Snyder said. “We're proud that people come here because they're fans of our product. These tours create a special, even stronger bond with that product, and that's a positive for everyone here at Wild Turkey, the state and the industry.”

        Following a tour at Labrot and Graham, Mr. O'Brien said he and his wife would head back to Pennsylvania with a new knowledge of and respect for the drink.

        “It's amazing how much I didn't know about bourbon,” he said. “I know I'll never crack open a bottle the same way again.”

       



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