History: Carbon dating of seeds shows cucumbers were cultivated as long ago as 7750 B.C. near the Thailand-Burma border, where the member of the gourd family probably originated. Ancient Romans cultivated and ate them, but cucumbers were slow to arrive in Northern Europe, probably not until the 14th century. Spanish explorers introduced cucumbers to the New World, where Indians grew and ate them.

        FYI: Also called “European greenhouse,” “Dutch greenhouse,” and “hothouse,” “English” cucumbers are long, dark and smooth with a thin skin and few seeds. English cucumbers are the best for presentation and reliable good flavor. They are usually sold shrink-wrapped. Some growers and marketers claim English cucumbers are also burpless. Other varieties include “American pickling,” “Middle Eastern slicing,” “Japanese slicing,” “Korean slicing” and the common “American slicing.”

        Buy: Cucumbers are available year-round, but the crop generally peaks from May to August. Choose firm cucumbers with smooth, brightly colored skins. Avoid those with shriveled or soft spots.

        Store: Store unwashed cucumbers in a plastic bag (or shrink-wrap) in refrigerator for up to 10 days. Wash just before using. Cut cucumbers can be refrigerated, tightly wrapped, for up to five days.

        Prepare: Thin-skinned English cucumbers can be served peeled or unpeeled. Cucumbers with heavily waxed skins should be peeled. To remove seeds easily: Cut cucumbers in half lengthwise and use tip of teaspoon or handle of vegetable peeler to scrape out seeds. For simple salad, toss cucumber slices with vinegar, salt, sugar and pepper to taste and chill. In addition to salads and crudites, saute cucumbers in butter with fresh herbs for side dishes and puree them for hot and cold soups.

        Good for you: Cucumbers contain small amounts of vitamins A and C, mostly in their skins. They're low in calories (39 per one medium cuke) and sodium (6 mg), fat-free and filling.

        Professional treatment: The fresh, summery flavor of cucumbers is most cleverly used at the Cobblestone Cafe in Waynesville by floating a thin slice on a glass of ice water instead of lemon. Try it, it's remarkably refreshing.

        The Iron Skillet in Newtown serves a traditional Hungarian marinated cucumber salad with certain schnitzels and other European dishes as a piquant and crunchy contrast.

Summer Cucumber and Tomato Pasta
       

        About 1/4 pound thin-skinned cucumber
       2 tablespoons diced red onion
        1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
       1 tablespoon white wine vinegar or rice vinegar
       About 5 ounces red or yellow cherry tomatoes
       1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
       1 teaspoon minced thyme or savory leaves, or 1 1/2 tablespoons thinly sliced basil
        1/4 pound thin spaghetti or fine linguine

        Cut cucumber into julienne strips, 1/4-inch dice or small thin triangles to make about 3/4 cup. Combine with onion, salt and vinegar in bowl; toss. Let stand at least 15 minutes, then strain in drainer for 5 minutes.

        Quarter tomatoes to make about 3/4 cup. Toss in individual serving bowl with 1 tablespoon oil and 3/4 teaspoon thyme or 1 tablespoon basil. Set aside. Boil pasta in salted water until slightly more tender than al dente; drain.

        Add cucumber to tomatoes; toss. Add drained hot pasta and toss. Let stand 15 minutes or more, tossing occasionally. Season and add remaining herbs and oil as desired. Makes 1 serving.

— Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini (Morrow; $60)

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