History: Most common in the United States are soft-shell blue crabs, which are harvested in the Chesapeake Bay and along much of the Eastern seaboard from about May to September. Soft-shell crabs are caught before they “molt” or shed their shells in order to mate and are sold before they can grow new hard shells. Soft-shell crabs are shipped alive or flash-frozen. The soft-shell industry was started in the 19th century in Crisfield, Md.

        FYI: The Japanese appetite for soft-shell blue crabs is voracious. Many of the soft-shells harvested from Chesapeake Bay are shipped to Japan.

        Buy: The best-tasting crabs, hard or soft-shell, are sold live and lively. If they don't move, don't buy them. Soft-shells and other blue crabs are sold according to size, ranging from the smallest, called “mediums” (3 1/2 inches across the back) to largest, “whales” (5 1/2 or more inches). In between are “hotels” (4-4 1/2), “primes” (4 1/2-5) and “jumbos” (5-5 1/2).

        Store: Keep soft-shell crabs and other seafood below 40 degrees. Pack in ice, if possible, for the trip from store to home. Refrigerate promptly and use fresh soft-shells within a day of purchase.

        Prepare: To clean a soft-shell, use scissors to snip off the eyes and mouth, then the gills under both sides of the shell. Unless you're an expert, though, it's best to have your fishmonger clean them. The entire soft-shell is edible. Soft-shells can be battered and fried, sauteed or grilled.

Sauteed Soft-Shell Crabs

        1/4 cup butter, olive oil or combination
        4 soft-shell crabs, cleaned
        Flour for dredging
        1 large egg lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water
        Unseasoned bread crumbs for dredging, seasoned with salt and black pepper
        Lemon wedges

        Heat 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat 3 or 4 minutes. Melt butter in skillet and when foam subsides, raise heat to medium-high. Dredge a crab in flour, dip it in egg wash, then dredge it in bread crumbs. Place crab in skillet and repeat process with other crabs.
        Cook until golden brown on one side, then turn and cook until golden brown on other side, about 4 minutes per side. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 4 main-course servings. (To serve as appetizer, cut cooked soft-shells into quarters.)
        Fish: The Complete Guide to Buying and Cooking (Macmillan; $27.50)

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