History: Man has been making and eating goat cheese as long as there have been goat herds. Popular in the Mediterranean and Europe for centuries, goat cheese did not become widely available in the United States until the 1980s — probably because American dairy farmers raise mostly cows.

        FYI: Chevre (SHEHV-ruh), French for “goat,” also means “goat cheese.” Pur chevre on the label means the cheese is made entirely from goat's milk. Chevre frais is “fresh” or unaged goat cheese usually sold in log shapes. Some of the better-known aged chevres include banon, montrachet and bucheron.

        Buy: Steven Jenkins offers this general advice for buying all types of cheese in his Cheese Primer (Workman; $16.95): Check the label carefully to see what kind of milk the cheese was made from, and where it was made. Be sure the cheese looks fresh, with no mold in the interior (unless it's a blue cheese), cracks or discoloration. The exterior or rind may appear rustic or natural-colored and the cheese may be high quality. Taste cheese before buying it, if possible. And don't buy large quantities unless you plan to use the cheese soon.

        Store: More advice from Mr. Jenkins: Most cheeses should be covered and refrigerated so that they remain moist. Don't store cheese in air-tight bags. Wrap it in plastic wrap, aluminum foil, waxed paper or cheesecloth. When serving cheese, cut off only as much as needed and return the rest to the refrigerator.

        Serve: Goat cheese and other cheeses taste best at cool room temperature. Take them out of the refrigerator an hour or so before serving and keep covered. Serve fresh or aged goat cheese as an appetizer or after-dinner course with fresh or dried fruit and good bread. Choosing wine to serve with goat cheese depends on many factors, but most agree the best pairing with fresh goat cheese is Sancerre, or another flinty, citrusy sauvignon blanc.

        Professional treatment: Just five or six years ago, goat cheese was unusual on Tristate restaurant menus. Now, it shows up everywhere. Its creaminess makes it versatile, its assertive flavor makes it a central ingredient. It's in salads, like the goat cheese, beet and pistachio salad at Maisonette; in appetizers, like Caravelle's goat cheese tart with leeks or Pane e Vino's bruschetta with goat cheese and a tangy tomato salad; in pasta, like Encore Cafe's goat cheese ravioli, and in entrees, like Carrabba's roasted chicken breasts topped with goat cheese and sundried tomatoes.

        Dining writer Polly Campbell contributed.

Marinated Chevre with Olives

        1 5-ounce log fresh or young chevre
        6 garlic cloves
        2 to 3 strips lemon zest
        1 teaspoon black peppercorns
        1 small sprig of thyme or rosemary
        1 cup olives, such as nicoise, kalamata or salt-cured black, drained and pitted
        Extra virgin olive oil
        Thyme or rosemary sprigs, for garnish
        Baguette slices

        Place goat cheese in small bowl and add garlic, lemon zest, peppercorns, thyme or rosemary and olives. Pour olive oil over it all until it covers everything completely. Let stand at room temperature several hours, or covered and refrigerated for up to 6 days.
        Before serving, bring to room temperature and pour off olive oil (reserve for vinaigrette or another use). Arrange chevre on platter with olives and garnish with herb sprigs. Serve with baguette slices. Makes 4 to 6 appetizer servings.
        — California Home Cooking (Harvard Common Press; $16.95)

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