A version of the dessert simply called “Summer Berry Pudding” enjoys great popularity in the British Isles when the berry season is in full swing. It's not a real pudding as Americans define pudding, but the British refer to almost all desserts as “pudding.” If you think of it as a type of bread pudding, then its name describes it aptly.

        One thing I notice when eating desserts in Britain, as well as the rest of Europe, is how much less sugar they contain than their American counterparts.This lovely, light berry creation is another example of a dessert with great flavor that is not too sweet.

        The modest amount of sugar is combined with the berries to form a fresh berry juice that will soak into the firm bread slices, adding a beautiful rich color and infusing the bread with the luscious berry flavors.

        The elegant finished product makes a lovely presentation and gives the impression of a dish far more complicated than it is. You don't need a fancy mold; a small mixing bowl will do.

        The one secret for a beautifully formed pudding, as well as one that absorbs the berry juice and keeps its shape, is the right type of bread. My original English recipe calls for “firm, coarse white bread.”

        The best Summer Berry Pudding I've eaten was made with brioche, the buttery and egg-rich French bread that does, indeed, have a good coarse texture. If you desire a less indulgent pudding, I suggest using a loaf of challah, an egg bread.

        Buy an unsliced loaf at the bakery and slice it into 1/2-inch slices and trim the crusts. These crustless slices will be thick enough to form a good base for your pudding and soak up all of the juices, but thin enough to be pliable so you can properly line the bowl.

        Place the bread slices as close together as possible. Weighing down the assembled pudding properly is another important step, but also not difficult. After you put a plate on top, add a couple heavy cans of food before you chill it a full 24 hours.

Summer Berry Pudding

       1 pint each raspberries, blueberries and blackberries
        3/4 cup sugar
       1 loaf firm white bread, sliced into 1/2-inch slices with crusts removed
       Sweetened freshly whipped cream, (optional)

        Place berries in a colander and rinse well. (Not necessary to drain.) Pour into a large, non-corrosive saucepan and sprinkle with sugar. Allow to sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. Place over heat and bring to a boil; boil 1 minute.

        Remove from heat and allow the berries to cool in their juice.

        To assemble the pudding: Line bottom and sides of a 1 quart mixing bowl with bread slices. Spoon in half of the fruit with juice. Cover with another layer of bread and spoon in the remaining fruit and juice. Cover the top with more bread slices. Place a saucer or small plate directly on top of the bread and place a weight on top of the plate. (About 2 pounds.) Refrigerate pudding for 24 hours. Run a thin spatula between the pudding and the bowl to loosen and invert the pudding onto serving dish. Cut into slices. Top each slice with some whipped cream, if desired.

       Contact Marilyn Harris by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer; fax: 768-8330; e-mail: marilyn@55krc.com.

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