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Wednesday, July 31, 2002

Sips: Wine


Don't be shy about light, breezy reds in summer

By Amy Simmons
Enquirer contributor

        Summertime . . . and the red wine is easy.

        George Gershwin, when he penned that beautiful tune about livin' easy, probably wasn't thinking about drinking red wine in the summer. Like nearly everyone, he probably preferred whites in warm weather. But as we suffer through the hottest time of the year, there's no reason we shouldn't think about drinking reds.

        There are plenty of light, easy-going red wines. Dolcettos from Italy or their fruity French cousin, Beaujolais, fall on the lighter side of reds. Both are easy, breezy wines for sipping, but not much else.

        For summertime red wine lovers looking for something with a little body and a good dose of fruit, there are many interesting options to explore. Look to varietals such as syrah, zinfandel, grenache and sangiovese, or wines that offer a blend of these grapes, says Chuck Warinner, owner of Dilly Deli Wines & Gourmet in Mariemont.

        And what to look for in a good summertime red wine?

        “You can have a wine that feels full, is full of fruit and flavor, but doesn't taste heavy or weighty,” says Katie O'Neil, general manager of the Wine Merchant in Oakley.

        Ms. O'Neil recommends Italian reds, such as chianti and sangiovese. She notes good summer reds will offer an abundance of fruit flavors — red currant, raspberry and bing cherry — instead of the more black cherry and plum flavors found in cabernets and merlots.

        Here are a few favorite reds from a recent tasting:

        • Cantina di Montalcino Chianti Riserva 1998 ($15): Black cherry on the nose and early. The Cantina felt like a chianti with a fruity personality. Nice size to hold with pasta or enjoy alone.

        • Solarce Rioja Crianza 1998 (NV): This is a softer, rounder Rioja from Bodegas Alicia Rojas. Riojas can skew big and heavy, but this one offers a fruity flavor and was delicious with grilled meat.

        • Besson Givry Cru 2000 ($17): A delicious red burgundy (a k a pinot noir) at a great price. This wine was a real treat on a summer evening. It held up nicely with the food, but was also enjoyable alone.

        Mr. Warinner also recommends Snoqualamie Syrah 1999 ($10) from Columbia Valley and Renaissance Red Impressions 2000 ($9), a grenache-syrah blend from the Sierra Foothills in California.

        For summer, these reds offer a juicy, fruitiness with a hint of spice, the perfect combination for either enjoying on the patio after work or with food, particularly grilled meats, Mr. Warinner says.

        When enjoying red wines in the summer, the biggest mistake people make is serving them at room temperature, he cautions. Put the wine in the freezer for about 20 minutes, or in the fridge for 45 minutes before serving, he suggests.

        And, for good measure, you might want to drop the bottle in an ice bucket where it can stay cool.

        Chat with Amy Simmons today from 12:30 to 1 p.m. at Cincinnati.com. Contac her by e-mail: asimmons@deskey.com or send questions and comments c/o the Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202.

       

       



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