Ruthai's Thai Kitchen may be just a little place squeezed into two narrow rooms off Mount Lookout Square, but it delivers a hefty punch of flavor.

        At the back of one simply decorated dining room is a sushi bar, a spreading trend in area Thai restaurants. The carryout register reigns in the adjoining room, where customers can eat or await their orders while exchanging updates on other favorite Thai restaurants.

        A recent excursion to Ruthai's yielded a good-tasting dinner of differing flavors and textures. We skipped the savory-sounding appetizers, such as fish cakes ($5.95) and crispy tofu ($5.95), for the lighter papaya salad ($5.95) and some sushi selections ($1.50-$9.95). The salad of shredded papaya with lime, tomato and peanuts was delicately dressed, a nice accompaniment to the sushi. Our small sampling of salmon and tuna sushi tasted fresh and was more reasonably priced than some other restaurant sushi.

        A good array of noodles, curries and other entrees is offered at Ruthai's. We tried the garlic and pepper chicken ($8.95), a pretty dish where baby corn contrasted with steamed green vegetables and the white-meat chicken. The garlic was lost in a muddle of flavors, but that definitely was not a problem with the pad prig khing pork ($8.95), an assertive blend of sauteed pork in red curry sauce with green beans and kaffir lime leaves that set off the flavor sensors.

        We also liked the spicy fish ($12.95), a house specialty. Thai basil lent its warmth to a tender piece of lightly fried fish with a spicy-sweet sauce. It came with fragrant jasmine rice and a house salad of iceberg lettuce that easily stood up to its rich peanut dressing.

        For next time, there are many more dishes to try — pad Thai ($8.95), standard fare at almost every Thai restaurant, but still a favorite. Seafood basil ($13.95) and shrimp in spicy peanut sauce ($10.95) also sound good.

        Vegetarians will be happy with Ruthai's vegetarian entrees. Some are just vegetables, others are tofu dishes.

       Ruthai's Thai Kitchen, 3164 Linwood Ave., Mount Lookout, 871-7687

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