Technology and modern transportation allow us to enjoy quality produce year-round, and with most there is usually little discernable difference between locally grown products and what is shipped in from other climates.

        There are, of course, exceptions, with the outstanding one being my favorite, tomatoes. I think all tomato lovers will agree no one has come up with a tomato to equal a freshly picked vine-ripened one. I've given up growing my own, but a quick trip to one of our farmers' markets will earn me a basket full of tomato goodness. I came home recently with six varieties.

        There is always the temptation to buy more than we can possibly consume while the tomatoes are at their peak. A good way to use them is in a tasty tomato soup. This tomato soup recipe incorporates both my love for tomato flavor and my undying affinity for the good flavors of the Southwestern kitchen. I've made it with roma tomatoes, large plump red tomatoes and yellow tomatoes, all with great success.

        The cilantro and hot sauce enhance the tangy tomato flavor and the sour cream adds a creamy contrast. The corn chips are optional, but can serve as flavorful and crunchy croutons. It's best to pass the chips at the table so they can be added at the last minute to maintain their crunchy texture. For variety, try serving this soup ice cold. For a hearty and elegant variation, add 6 or 8 ounces of crab or shrimp.

Spicy Fresh Tomato Soup

       2 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes
       2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
       1 large onion, chopped
       2 large ribs celery, chopped
       2 large cloves garlic, minced
       2 tablespoons flour
       3 cups chicken broth
        1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
       1 bay leaf
        1/2 teaspoon Tabasco sauce, (or to taste)
       Salt, to taste
       1 teaspoon fresh lime or lemon juice
       1 cup sour cream
       Small corn chips

        Pierce tomatoes with a large fork and plunge into rapidly boiling water for about 30 seconds. Cool in ice water and peel. Cut tomatoes in half crosswise. Hold a half tomato in your hand and squeeze to expel the seeds and watery pulp. Do this into a strainer over a bowl to reserve the juice. Finely chop the tomatoes in the food processor or blender, add the reserved juice and set aside.

        Heat oil in a large non-corrosive pot. Add the onion, celery and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, over high heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Whisk in the chicken broth. Add the tomatoes, cilantro and bay leaf. Cook, uncovered, over medium heat for 15 minutes. Season to taste with the Tabasco and salt. Stir in the lemon or lime juice. Remove the bay leaf.

        Serve hot, topped with a dollop of sour cream, crushed corn chips, and a sprinkling of chopped cilantro. Makes 8 servings.

        Contact Marilyn Harris by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer; fax: 768-8330; e-mail: marilyn@55krc.com.

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