In a world of interesting breweries, one group is in a class by itself. The Trappist breweries of Belgium are not only the most unusual, but also produce some of the best beer in the world.

        Monasteries became known as brewing centers during the Middle Ages, being among the few places where travelers could safely stop to refresh themselves. With a constant flow of guests, monasteries became centers of hospitality, invariably including a substantial brewery.

        Today, only the Trappist order still brews beer, although they are also noted for magnificent cheeses and other products. Six monastic breweries are active today, all in Belgium.

        The best known, most widely available Trappist beer comes from the Abbey of Notre Dame de Scourmont, and its beers bear the Chimay label, from a nearby town. Three distinct versions are distinguished by the color of the bottle cap.

        Chimay Red is stronger than most American beers at 7 percent alcohol by volume. Chimay is an ale, as are all the Trappist beers. Most people begin their Trappist beer experience with this delightfully fruity and malty brew. It has enough complexity of flavor to satisfy the connoisseur, while still pleasing the novice. The rich, copper color and big, fluffy head make it a treat for the eyes, too.

        Chimay White is deep golden, and stronger (about 8 percent), but deceptive. You might not even notice the warming feeling until you've nearly finished your glass. This is a somewhat spicy beer, with a dry finish.

        Chimay Gold (also with a blue cap), is a rich, dark brown, still with that magnificent head. The strongest of the three, it boasts 9 percent alcohol, but that's definitely secondary to the rich, complex flavors developed over time. You can put a few bottles of this beer in a cool place and notice it evolve from year to year as it ages. It's superb with a robust, highly flavored cheese after dinner.

        The next most widely seen Trappist beer is Orval. Brewed off and on since the 11th century, Orval is an intensely dry, earthy, slightly acidic, and very fruity beer in a distinctive bottle that looks like a small bowling pin. It's universally recognized as a world classic.

        Westmalle is the only other Trappist beer that most Americans have tried. Their signature “triple” beer style has set the standard for all others, as an intensely fruity, hugely complex golden beer with a spicy, hoppy flavor.

        Rochefort, Westvleteren, and Achel are the other Trappist breweries, and their beers are only just beginning to appear in this country. Every bit as distinctive as their monastic counterparts, they are equally at home in any grouping of world-class beers.

        I confess to a personal weakness for the Rochefort “8” (they also make a “10”), but I'm always delighted to find any of these gems. Trappist beers go particularly well with food, so restaurants are the most natural place to find them in Belgium.

        We're quite fortunate in the Tristate in this regard. To my knowledge, there is only one place within hundreds of miles where you can find all six Trappist breweries on the same beer list. The Oriental Wok restaurant (5038 Old Taylor Mill Road; (859) 431-3000) in Taylor Mill has them all, along with a great selection of other world-class beers from Germany, England, and America.

        The restaurant is owned by the Wong family, famous for its larger Oriental Wok restaurant in Fort Mitchell, but the Taylor Mill facility is the one with the fantastic beer list. Manager Guy Burgess has been quietly building his beer cellar over time, and is able to offer all the Trappist beers to customers.

        One final note: Try not to miss AleFest Dayton, 2-6 p.m. Saturdayat Fifth Third Field Plaza. More than 150 craft beers will be offered during the event. Tickets are $20 in advance; $25 day of the event. Purchase tickets at Jungle Jim's Market in Fairfield. More information: www.alefest.com. or (937) 298-4545.

        Contact Ed Westemeier by e-mail: hopfen@malz.com.

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