We lucky Tristaters already have had several Oktoberfest celebrations this year, but the big one downtown happens Saturday and Sunday.

        The Zinzinnati Oktoberfest is the largest of its kind outside the original Oktoberfest in Munich, and there will be plenty of Oktoberfest-style beer flowing. Even though the German influence has been diminished from what it was several years ago, you'll probably still see men in lederhosen and women in dirndls. You'll also see a number of them hoisting big, foaming mugs of beer.

        What most people don't realize is the kind of beer we call Oktoberfest is not at all the same style served at the “real” Oktoberfest in Munich. Somehow we got locked into the idea that Oktoberfest beer must be what Germans tend to call maerzen or Vienna style. That means an amber beer with a hint of toasted malt character and an emphasis on malt.

        If you go to the Oktoberfest in Munich, you'll likely find nothing resembling that beer style. Only breweries located in the city limits of Munich are allowed to have a beer hall or “tent” at the Munich festival. Each one brews and serves a special beer, but it can be any style they like. What surprises many visiting Americans is that most of the time you wouldn't be able to tell a real Oktoberfest from an ordinary beer just by looking at it.

        The typical German Oktoberfest these days is a golden beer, just a little stronger than normal. It has slightly more body, and is loaded with great, malty flavor despite its pale color. When I was at the Lowenbrau tent in Munich last year with my wife, she found their special beer irresistible, despite the fact that she normally doesn't drink beer. I think that testimonial speaks for itself, although part of the attraction is the incredibly friendly party atmosphere.

        Whether you savor a glass of the standard amber beer we call Oktoberfest in this country, or the lighter colored authentic brew, please spare a thought for the hardy German pioneers who did so much to build our city, and raise a toast to thank them for bringing their brewing skills with them.

        Speaking of bringing it with him, Prince Luitpold of Bavaria, our honored guest this year, brought not only his magnificent weissbier that I praised so highly in a recent column, but also a special batch of Oktoberfest. It will only be available in draft form at the downtown Oktoberfest, so there's another good reason to make the trip to Fifth Street.

        Maybe you can't make it downtown, or you want something a little different. I found two new American Oktoberfest beers in local stores that are worth looking for. Tabernash Brewery in Colorado and Brooklyn Brewery in New York have Oktoberfest beer available for a limited period. Both are in the standard amber style, and both are superb.

        For those who avoid the downtown Oktoberfest because it's just too huge, let me suggest a smaller, more intimate and relaxed version. It's also held this Saturday, beginning at noon, just up the road in Dayton. The second annual Downtown Dayton Oktoberfest takes place on East Second Street, between Jefferson and St. Clair.

        This event is sponsored by one of my favorite pubs — Boston's Bistro, at 101 E. Second St. in Dayton. It always has a great lineup of draft and bottled beers, including the occasional firkin of real ale from Great Britain.

        For more information on Dayton Oktoberfest, including directions: www.bostonsbistro.com or (937) 461-1002.

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