History: Squash is the fruit of various members of the gourd family native to the Western hemisphere. There is evidence of squash being eaten in Mexico as far back as 5500 B.C. and in South America more than 2,000 years ago. Squash are generally divided into two categories: summer squash, such as zucchini and pattypan, with soft edible skin; and winter squash, with hard, thick skins and seeds. Winter squash varieties include acorn, butternut, delicata, hubbard, pumpkin and sweet dumpling.

        Buy: Although winter squash is generally available year-round, flavor is best during September and October. Buy rock-solid winter squash, heavy for its size. Press the skin to make sure there are no soft spots and try scraping it with your fingernail. If the skin is easily scraped, it's probably too young. Look for full, firm corky stems. Avoid skinny or green stems.

        Store: Small to medium winter squash will keep for weeks or more in a cool (ideally around 55 degrees), well-ventilated place. Do not refrigerate whole winter squash, but once cut, wrap with plastic, chill promptly, and use within a few days.

        Prepare: If small squash is to be cooked whole, scrub with a brush, then pierce several slits near the stem. Or cut out a cap to replace during cooking. Another option is to cut off stem, cut squash lengthwise, scrape out seeds and stringy fibers, then scoop out flesh with spoon or melon ball maker. Even easier: cut squash in half, scrape out seeds and fibers, and roast in 350 degree oven until soft. Allow squash to cool, then scoop out soft flesh.

        Use: Serve baked winter squash with butter, brown sugar or maple syrup. Mash or whip into purees. Stir into soups and stews.

        Good for you: Winter squash varieties are generally rich sources of beta-carotine and are high in iron and potassium.

        Professional treatment: Butternut squash makes a wonderful, smooth soup, like one that has been on the menu at Northside's Boca, sprinkled with toasted hazelnuts and served with a dollop of creme fraiche, or at the Phoenix, downtown, with diced chestnuts. Butternut, acorn and pumpkin are combined into a vegetarian stuffing for the Chuba Cabre burrito at Habanero in Clifton.

Apple-Stuffed Mini-Pumpkins
       
       4 mini-pumpkins (about 6 ounces each)
       1 teaspoon brown sugar
       1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
       1 tablespoon vegetable, walnut or peanut oil
       1 apple
       2 tablespoons minced celery
       2 tablespoons chopped walnuts
       1 teaspoon lemon juice

        1/4 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled

        1/4 teaspoon dried sage, crumbled

        1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

        Pepper

        Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Rinse pumpkins. With sturdy, sharp knife, cut a square cap around each pumpkin stem, poking into the heart of the pumpkins to cut the fibers. Pry out cap. With melon baller or grapefruit spoon, scoop out and scrape the interior to remove all seeds and fibers. Trim fibers from caps.

        Blend brown sugar, mustard and oil. With brush, paint interior of pumpkins and caps with the mixture. Peel, core and chop apple. Toss with celery, walnuts, lemon juice, herbs, salt and pepper. Divide filling among pumpkins. Set caps gently on each without pressing.

        Place pumpkins in baking dish. Pour in 1/2 inch water. Cover dish with foil and bake until pumpkins are tender when pierced with knife, about 1 hour. Do not undercook — the flesh should be creamy. Makes 4 servings.

        — Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini (Morrow; $60)
       Dining writer Polly Campbell contributed.
       

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