History: Mache, (mahsh), the pretty little European salad green, used to be rather exclusive on this continent, which is surprising when you look at the many names it has been given: field lettuce, lamb's lettuce and corn salad (it grows wild in corn fields). Mache, its French name, is used by upscale restaurants. Mache has tender, narrow green leaves with a tangy, nut-like flavor.

        Buy: Mache is a cold weather crop, but is now available year-round. Bagged mache has tight quality control, so unless it's past the freshness date, there should be no problem. If you find it loose at farmers' markets or produce specialty retailers, look for perky little leaf rosettes of a vibrant, deep green color.

        Store: If the mache is not prewashed and bagged, wash and dry it thoroughly before storing in an airtight bag in the refrigerator. Use within two days.

        Prepare: These little greens can be sauteed and treated like you would spinach, but mostly they are used as a salad ingredient. Their mild flavor could get lost in a mesclun-type salad mix, especially one with assertive bitter greens. Because of its attractive shape, mache is perfect for dressing up a plate, particularly if the main course is poultry or fish. Pinch the stems off and leave the little rosettes intact. Dress them lightly with a vinaigrette made with olive oil or part olive and part nut oil, such as hazelnut.

        Mache also pairs well with fruits or vegetables. Vinaigrette-dressed mache can be served with sliced ripe pears or persimmons, a scattering of toasted nuts and maybe a little mild goat cheese.

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