Required Reading
Perhaps only those seven who have a truly global, international interest in ethnic foods will need to own a copy of The Food lover's Atlas of the World (Firefly; $35) by well-known food writer Martha Rose Shulman, but anyone would enjoy browsing through it. I know I'll find it useful.

It includes entries on all the countries or regions of the world that describe their food traditions, ingredients and distinctive dishes. It explains the differences between Thai, Malaysian and Vietnamese food; details the origins of Spain's famous tapas, and describes 16 culinary regions of France. Gorgeous color photos will make you want to take off tomorrow for some exotic food locale.

While the food described in The Food lover's Almanac is astounding in its variety, there are interesting commonalities across culinary cultures. For instance, many countries have a thick, chowder-like fish soup:

Scotland: cullen skink, made from Finnan haddock, onions, potatoes and milk.

Finland: kalakeitto, with onions, allspice, new potatoes, chives and dill.

Southern France: bouillabaisse, with saffron.

Portugal: caldeirada, containing up to seven kinds of fish.

Senegal: thiebou dienne, a fish and rice soup.

Cambodia: mchou banle, made with tomatoes, cucumbers and galangal.

United States: clam chowder.

Most cultures also have a dish made from beaten eggs, fried or baked:

French: omelets.

Spanish: tortilla Espanol, like an open-faced omelet with potatoes.

Iranian: kookoo, an herb omelet.

Tunisian: makhouda, made like a crustless quiche.

Korean: pajon, an eggy pancake filled with scallions and little shrimp.

Q&A

Question: Please tell me what makes cakes and brownies rise so much higher in the middle than on the sides?

Answer: Too much batter in the pan will cause the batter to hump and crack like a volcano. But even when cake pans are not overfilled, the center of the cakes often will rise higher than the edges. That's because the sides of the pan conduct heat more efficiently to the edges of the batter, which causes the cake edges to bake before they finish rising. The cooler middle, meanwhile, keeps going up, up, up.

Magi-Cake Strips, a product sold in cookware and cake-decorating stores, solves the problem. When wrapped around the outside rim of a pan, the strips cool the metal and promote even heating. The result is a level cake.

If you can't find Magi-Cake Strips in stores, call (800) 827-6836. A set of two reusable strips is $9.95 plus shipping from the Baker's Catalogue.

Learn To Cook

These cooking schools offer classes different times of the year. Call for schedules and prices.

Cooks' Wares, Shops at Harper's Point, Symmes Township. 489-6400.
Cooking School at Jungle Jim's Market, Fairfield. 829-1919, Ext. 3.
Culinary Sol, Rookwood Commons, Norwood. 841-2665.
Dorothy Lane Market School of Cooking, Dayton. (937) 434-1294.
The Great Indoors, Springdale, 346-1506.
Kremer's Market Cooking Classes, Crescent Springs. 341-1067.
Restaurant Equipment Outlet's Cooking Classes, Northside. 542-5900.
Wild Oats, Rookwood Commons, Norwood. 531-8015.
Williams-Sonoma Grand Cuisine, Kenwood Towne Centre, 793-3445.Learn to Cook
       

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