By Polly Campbell
The Cincinnati Enquirer

Where to try single-barrel bourbon:

Just as there's an interest among serious Scotch drinkers in unblended single-malt brands, bourbon drinkers are discovering single-barrel bourbons. While most bourbon is blended from hundreds of barrels in one distillery, single-barrel bourbons come from a carefully selected barrel that has aged in the best part of the warehouse.

DeSha's American Tavern in Symmes Township and deSha's in Lexington not only have the best selection of these special bourbons, with 10 single barrel and five small-batch bourbons among their 40 brands of bourbon, , they have their own proprietary single barrel, and have since 1998. DeSha's says it was the first restaurant in the world to have its own label, a fact difficult for us to verify. Tavern Restaurant Group owner Nick Sanders and some of his managers and bartenders recently went to Buffalo Trace Distillery in Frankfort, Ky., where they met with Elmer T. Lee, the distillery's master distiller emeritus, and picked out their barrel for the year.

"Mr. Lee took us to his favorite part of his favorite warehouse, where we took the bung out of a few barrels and tried them," says Mr. Sanders. They didn't try too many, he says, since at that point the bourbon is 135 proof.

"Each barrel is remarkably different. It's hard to describe exactly what we look for, but several of us try them and cast our votes, and we rely, of course, on Elmer's expertise."

The barrel they chose is being bottled and will be available at the restaurant this week. One barrel yields 24 cases of six bottles each, which at $6.75 a shot at the bar lasts the two restaurants about a year.

For many, the way to enjoy fine bourbon is with a little water or with a couple of ice cubes. But deSha's also has a list of 10 specialty Manhattans, just as other restaurants have martini lists. Each is made with a different single-barrel bourbon, with a dash of liqueur or flavoring. They also serve their own cherry-infused bourbon.

The restaurants also recently rolled out some new menu items made with Maker's Mark bourbon, including a barbecue sauce.

The bourbon event of the year at deSha's will be Jan. 21, when there will be a dinner with food made with bourbon and a bourbon tasting. It will cost $55.

DeSha's American Tavern is at 11320 Montgomery Road in Symmes Township. 247-9933.

E-mail pcampbell@enquirer.com.