By Chuck Martin
The Cincinnati Enquirer

History: We do not know when or where cheese was first made. Sheep were domesticated 12,000 years ago, and cows were raised in ancient Egypt. So it seems reasonable to assume that cheese was created, probably at first by accident, shortly after these animals were domesticated for their milk. Roquefort was probably the first blue cheese produced. As early as the first century A.D., Roquefort was sent from France to Rome as a treat for the wealthy.

BLUE CHEESE SAUCE

1 teaspoon butter 7 ounces Cabrales, Roquefort or other blue cheese, crumbled 2/3 cup cream Melt butter in pan with crumbled blue cheese over gentle heat. Do not allow cheese to melt completely. Add cream and stir until sauce is smooth. Pour warm sauce over steaks, potatoes or pasta just before serving. Makes enough sauce for 4 steaks. - The Cheese Companion

How it's made: Blue-veined cheeses are inoculated or sprayed with spores of penicillin molds. As the cheese ages, flavorful pockets of blue or green mold develops.

Buy: Avoid blue cheese with hard cracked surfaces, surface mold and beads of sweat. Any cut surfaces should have a fresh look. Blue cheese may smell strong and pungent, but should not smell like ammonia, which may be a sign of overripening. Ask to taste the cheese before you buy it, if possible.

Store: For short term storage, wrap cheese in plastic and keep it in the warmest part of the refrigerator, such as inside the door. For longer storage, wrap the cheese more loosely to allow it to "breathe'' and store in the refrigerator. Separate blue cheese from other cheeses during storage. Freezing will adversely affect the flavor and texture of blue cheese.

Major blue cheese varieties:

Cabrales: Made from unpasteurized cow, goat and sheep milk in northern Spain, this robust cheese has a strong aroma and salty tang. Serve with sherry, young white or red rioja wine.

Gorgonzola: This blue originated in Lombardy, in northeastern Italy. Made from cow's milk, the texture of Gorgonzola is creamy, more moist than Stilton and more buttery than Roquefort. The flavor is piquant and spicy. Serve with barolo or valpolicella.

Maytag blue: This cow's milk cheese was developed in 1941 by Iowa State University and Maytag Dairy Farm. The cheese has a strong flavor with smooth and complex nutty tones and a creamy, almost spreadable texture. Serve Maytag with beer.

Roquefort: Made from sheep's milk and aged in caves in central France, Roquefort has a firm, smooth, almost spreadable texture. It is salty with delicate complexity and tangy finish. Pair with a a big Rhone wine, such as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, or sweet Sauternes.

Stilton: Sometimes called the "king of cheeses'' in England, Stilton has a mellow, nutty and fruity flavor that intensifies as it matures. The best Stilton, made from summer cow's milk, is generally sold from September to Christmas. Serve it after dinner with toasted walnuts and port, or with English ale.

Serve: Like others, blue cheese tastes best at room temperature. Cover and leave cheese out up to two hours before serving. Serve with fresh fruit (apples, pears), dried fruit (figs and dates) , raw and toasted nuts and always fresh bread.

Source: The Cheese Companion (Running Press; $24.95)