By Mary Sanker
Enquirer Contributor

Deep-fried turkey is hot in food circles, winning raves for its juicy, moist meat and crisp, mahogany-colored skin. I thought I'd give fried turkey a shot this Thanksgiving, but when I realized I would have to invest in a propane burner, a huge pot, about five gallons of cooking oil and some sort of device to lower the turkey into the fat (kitchen tongs definitely don't work here), I decided this project was more than I wanted to tackle.

Then I discovered Ollie's Trolley will fry the turkey for me. This West End carryout restaurant prepares all kinds of good food, including deep-fried turkey, in a miniscule kitchen. With crisp, dark, crackling skin and juicy, moist, fork-tender breast meat, the turkey is seasoned with a special barbecue-flavored spice rub that goes well with country-style side dishes such as sweet potatoes and greens.

Somehow, despite its plunge into hot fat, this turkey is not greasy. When I picked up my turkey, it was wrapped tightly in foil, sitting snugly in an aluminum baking pan. When I got it home, still steaming, fragrant juices had pooled in the bottom of the pan, making a perfect sauce for sliced breast meat. Could it be any easier than this?

Ollie's asks at least two days' notice for orders, and the restaurant is staying open Thanksgiving morning until 11 a.m. to meet the needs of fried turkey-starved customers. Ollie's also cooks roasted and smoked turkeys, so you might want to consider ordering a bird or two if you're planning to feed a crowd.

The cost for a 16- to 20- pound fried turkey that feeds 8 to 10 is $45. When you factor in the cost and bother, as well as the danger of deep-frying it yourself, this is not a bad deal. Your oven stays free for other dishes and there's no cleanup.

Of course, there will always be some who want to be adventurous, but not me. This Thanksgiving, the folks at Ollie's Trolley can do the work.

Ollie's Trolley 1607 Central Ave., West End; 381-6100.

Among other places offering deep-fried turkey is:

Popeye's Chicken and Biscuits in Liberty Township (7088 Liberty Centre Drive) Call for availability and price: 777-6865.