By Chuck Martin
The Cincinnati Enquirer

History: Some believe Brussels sprouts developed in or around the Belgian city of the same name as early as the 13th century. Others think the cabbage-like sprouts were first grown in Brussels in the late 18th or early 19th century. Thomas Jefferson may have been the first to plant them in the New World, about 1812. The sprouts weren't grown commercially in the United States until a century later in northern California.

Buy: Brussels sprouts are available year-round but generally taste best when harvested during the cooler fall and winter months. Smaller sprouts usually are fresher and more tender, but look for sprouts about the same size. This means they'll cook through at about the same time. Choose uniformly green, tightly furled sprouts with no yellowing, wilting or mold.

Store: Keep Brussels sprouts for as little time as possible before cooking. Refrigerate loose sprouts in a plastic container with a sheet of paper towel, or in their original container.

Prepare: Pull off any loose or yellowing leaves. Trim bases if they extend below the bud. Cut large sprouts in half or in quarters before cooking. If you want individual leaves, pare out the core from the base, then separate the leaves. Soak sprouts about 15 minutes in lukewarm water to rid them of any hidden insects. Brussels sprouts can be boiled, steamed, braised or stir-fried.

Good for you: Like other cabbages, Brussels sprouts contain cancer-fighting agents and impressive amounts of vitamins A and C.

Professional treatment: Brussels sprouts are quite the glamor cruciferous vegetable in Greater Cincinnati dining rooms. David Falk of Boca in Northside probably has done more for them than anyone else, with his dish of diver scallops and caramelized Brussels sprouts, which is beloved by even sprouts haters.

They're also on the tasting menu at Jean-Robert at Pigall's, downtown. They're tiny ones, in a creamy sauce with walleye and roasted pear in a red wine sauce.

Jimmy Gibson has Brussels sprouts on the menu at Tropicana in Newport - wok-charred in a sweet-hot chile and garlic glaze.

Vik Silberberg uses Brussels sprout leaves in a dish of salmon with tagliatelle at the Celestial in Mount Adams.

Dining writer Polly Campbell contributed.

Sauteed Brussels Sprout Slivers with Orange and Caraway

About 10 ounces (1 pint container) medium to large Brussels sprouts
1 orange
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
Large pinch ground red pepper
1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds
2 scallions
1 tablespoon corn or peanut oil
Trim bases of sprouts closely. Stack in tube of food processor on slicing blade and press down firmly to cut into fairly thick slices. Place in bowl of lukewarm water to cover, and weight with a saucer to submerge.

Pare a few strips of zest from orange. Cut zest into thin strands, then into fine confetti to make about 1/2 teaspoon zest. Cut orange in half and squeeze about 1/3 cup juice into bowl. Add lemon juice, honey, salt and hot pepper and mix.

Toast caraway seeds in skillet over low heat, stirring until pungent and crackling. Scoop seeds onto cutting board and chop coarsely. Trim scallions and slice thinly, separating light and dark parts.

Drain sprouts. Heat oil in skillet. Add zest and light part of scallions and toss. Add sprouts and toss over high heat until wilted, about 2 minutes.

Add juice mixture and toss until leaves are tender and juice has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat as needed to prevent sprouts from drying out before they are cooked through. Add scallion greens and caraway seeds and toss. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

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