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Wednesday, November 20, 2002

Trade Secrets


Tips on dining in and dining out

Compiled by Polly Campbell
The Cincinnati Enquirer

We tried it

If you don't have the nerve to make your own gravy, Williams-Sonoma will help you cheat with its Turkey Gravy Base. Mix equal amounts of the base with milk, bring to a simmer and add a little turkey drippings and/or sherry for added flavor. This shortcut gravy turns out milk chocolate brown, thick and smooth with no lumps. It tastes almost as good as the real thing, with no overwhelming artificial flavor.

Easy gravy doesn't come cheap. The Turkey Gravy Base costs $7.50 per 17 ounce jar - enough to make a little over a quart of gravy. But maybe that price is worth your peace of mind. Available at Williams-Sonoma stores.

Seasonal fare

Many people dread making gravy at Thanksgiving because it's a last- minute chore - they're forced to wait until the turkey is roasted in order to use the pan drippings - and then there's that pesky problem with lumps.

If you're more comfortable making gravy ahead, buy about 3 pounds turkey wings and roast them in a 400-degree oven until browned, about an hour. Remove wings and reserve drippings from the pan.

Add a little water to roasting pan and simmer to remove any browned particles. Follow recipe below for making turkey stock, using the roasted wings and water from roasting pan. Strain stock and refrigerate until needed. Follow recipe for Pan Gravy 101. Cover and refrigerate until Thanksgiving. Use a little reserved stock for thinning gravy if needed.

To avoid lumps in your gravy, Rick Rodgers, author of Thanksgiving 101 (Broadway; $15), recommends using equal amounts of fat (drippings or butter) and flour. Whisk constantly while simmering the mixture. And finally, strain gravy to remove any lumps.

Pan Gravy 101

Drippings from roast turkey

About 31/2 cups homemade turkey stock (directions at right) or canned chicken broth or stock

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Salt and black pepper, to taste

When turkey is done, transfer it to a serving platter and set aside. Pour pan drippings into a 1-quart glass measure or medium bowl, leaving any browned bits in bottom of roasting pan. Let stand 5 minutes.

Using large spoon, skim the clear, yellow fat that has risen to the surface and reserve. Add enough stock to the remaining drippings to measure 4 cups total.

Set roasting pan over two burners over low heat. Add 6 tablespoons of reserved fat to the pan. Sprinkle flour into pan and whisk constantly. Let mixture bubble and continue whisking until it turns a beige color.

Whisk in the 4 cups of stock and drippings, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes, whisking. If gravy seems too thin, increase heat to medium and boil until it thickens. Season with salt and pepper and strain to remove any browned bits or lumps. Makes about 31/2 cups gravy.

Unusual stuffing

I'm not saying I recommend this recipe, but I thought it should be shared:

White Castle Turkey Stuffing

1 sack of 10 White Castle burgers (no cheese, no pickles)

1 1/2 cups celery, diced

1 1/4 tsp ground thyme

1 1/2 tsp ground sage

3/4 tsp coarsely ground black pepper

1/4 cup chicken broth

In a large mixing bowl, tear the burgers into pieces; add diced celery and seasonings. Toss and add chicken broth. Toss well. Stuff turkey cavity just before roasting (or bake separately). Makes about 9 cups (enough for a 10-12-pound turkey) Note: Allow 1 burger for each pound of turkey, which equals 3/4 cup of stuffing per pound.

Timely Tips

To make turkey stock ahead, brown about 3 pounds turkey wings with neck and giblets (except for liver) in 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in large pot. Remove turkey and add 1 chopped onion, 1 chopped carrot and 1 chopped celery rib. Cook until vegetables are softened. Return turkey to pot and cover with cold water by 2 inches. Bring to boil, skimming foam that rises to the surface. Add 6 sprigs parsley, 1/2 teaspoon thyme, 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns.

Reduce heat to low and simmer stock 2 to 12 hours, uncovered, adding more water as needed. Strain stock, allow to cool and skim fat that rises to surface. Stock can be refrigerated for three days and frozen up to three months.



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